Loop ride to Viviers

May 3, 2025

Today’s ride was likely the last chance for cycling in Noyers, at least during my current stay. The weather is predicted to change sometime this afternoon, bringing rain and cooler temperatures. Still in training mode, I plotted a route that would give me a bit more hills without too many additional miles, and one that would take me along some unfamiliar roads.

I set off just before 9:30, riding north along the Serein River. After two miles, I left the river near Moutot, and continued north towards Yrouerre. The breeze quickened as I made my up the long and gradual climb onto a plateau of windmills and waving barley. The tranquility was a bit mesmerizing with a peaceful rhythm broken only when I stopped for a photo.

Near the top of the climb, the route looped past Yrouerre for final push up to Viviers - it was a section I’d ridden last fall when I met Carla for lunch in Chablis. Though the road was familiar road, it seemed a bit more challenging today. Viviers is somewhat unique among towns in this area insofar as the main section of town is located down the hill from the main road. My experience has been that when they not located along a river, most towns/villages are found on some sort of rise in the landscape. I had sped past Viviers last fall on my way to Chablis but on this day I took the plunge into the center village – after all, I named the route “Loop to Viviers.” Things were quiet in Viviers – a far cry from the much livelier Viviers-sur-Rhône. A Brit loading re-cycling into his right-driving car was about the only Saturday morning action in town. I snapped a few pics and made my way back up the hill.

Leaving the river and looking back on Annay-sur-Serein

My only company was waving barley and windmills

The church in Viviers - one whose name eludes me

In planning my route for today, I fondly recalled a blissful stretch of road between Viviers and Chablis. In fact, I was so taken by the scenery last fall that I missed my turn. I’d only gone a short way before realizing my mistake, and noted that one day I should return to ride the “off-course” route. Well, today was the day. Reliving that day last fall, I stopped again at small intersection for a pain au raisin, but this time remembered my water bottle! Then I turned down the road not previously taken. And what a delight it was, winding past fields splashed with the agro-geometric patterns of spring and taking me gently back to the Serein River at Chemilly where I saw my first spandex-clad cyclists out for a day ride.

Continuing along the river, I bypassed Poilly-sur-Serein and then was rolling - another climb up from the river, down through the forest, a sharp turn and up again, spinning through the woods with my new 11-42 rear cassette. The small, car-free roads and expansive views left me feeling strong and very happy. A somewhat steep descent took me back down to the Serein at the small village of Sainte-Vertu, Holy Virtue Batman, what a ride!

Pain-au-Raisin stop where I left my water bottle last fall. Carla was able to retrieve it using a location pin I'd sent telling her I would soon be in Chablis for our lunch date

The patterns and shades of green along the road today. For some reason, I missed the chance to recreate the view shown in the picture above.

Scarybird - an inanimate species that seems to be a popular scarecrow substitute

Église de la Décollation de Saint-Jean-Baptiste - aka Church of the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist. Even the trees seem to fit the theme

I'm not the only one enjoying the day on a bike

Another view of Poilly-sur-Serein, taken three miles later, after my loop through the forest

I think it's the mask-like eyes conveying a sense of dumbfounded bovine curiosity that draw me to Limousin cattle

I paused for a bit in Môlay, finding nice bench by the little free library for a bit of lunch as I watched more day riders pass by. I thought about bailing on my planned route and just following the river back to Noyers. But the rides this week are not only about strengthening my legs and expanding my lungs, they also serve to strengthen my resolve, to stay the course and keep pedaling. And so it was that I climbed away from Môlay and kept pedaling. After five miles, I was back in Noyers enjoying an orange Pellegrino on Carla’s back porch.

A short break for a quick lunch in Môlay. No time for reading, I have another hill to climb

A look back as I begin the climb away from Môlay

It's not a Fanta, but a close substitute

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Scott AndersonThat's starting to look like a real ride. Just in time!
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2 weeks ago

Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 129 miles (208 km)

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Kathleen JonesYou’ve been getting a goodly amount of elevation gain on these training rides as well as distance. Good for you. So happy for you that you’re back in the saddle and IN FRANCE.
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2 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Kathleen JonesHi Kathleen - the hills are not so big in Burgundy but the elevation gain does mount up. And you've popped into my head a few times while pedaling through the countryside, thinking of how much you'd love riding here. It is FRANCE, after all.
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2 weeks ago