Loop-en-Royans

May 25, 2025

Royans is a small natural region located between the foothills of the Vercors and the Isère River, a place where three valleys descend from the Vercors massif: the Gorges de la Bourne, the cirque of the Combe Laval, and the Échevis valley, including the Grands and the Petits Goulets. Cyclists come here for spectacular rides up these valleys, and there was a lot of discussion at dinner last night as to where to ride over the next few days. So many choices!

As it turned out, Scott, Al and I took solo rides today while Rachael went hiking and the others took a rest/recovery day. I’d been wanting to ride up the Gorges de Bourne, but that ride was on the table for a group ride tomorrow. That prompted me to look for something easier today, perhaps a loop around the Royans valley. I plotted a route that I hoped would provide some views and a chance to visit small towns along the way.

I spent the morning in a vain attempt to catch up on the journal and didn’t leave town until noon. After a few false turns I was on my way, a wonderful rolling ride that offered everything I’d hoped for.

At Sainte-Eulalie-en-Royans, I was stopped by officials in yellow vests just as a group of Gran Fondo participants went speeding through town on their way up Col de la Machine. They must have been near the lead as trailing riders clad in the bright green Fondo jerseys were strung along my track for miles, with the real laggards chatting with friends or stopping for photos and/or nature breaks.

Starting out through the narrow streets of Pont-en-Royans

The iconic hanging houses of Pont-en-Royans

My track followed/intersected with a series of velo routes that crisscrossed the area on small local roads. It was idyllic cycling, a rolling green countryside backdropped by the towering Vercors massif. I stopped for a quick look-see and snack in Saint-Jean-en-Royans, and then climbed through a landscape of open fields and small farms.

After reaching the high point of the day, a steep descent brought me to Saint-Nazaire-en-Royans, a medieval village located at the junction of the Bourne and Isère Rivers. The town has been inhabited since prehistoric times and is notable for a 17-arch aqueduct spanning the Bourne River. I missed seeing the aqueduct, but did meet a local family in need of a bicycle pump. Unfortunately, I was of no help as my pump wouldn’t work on his Schrader valve.

I thought I spotted something in the steeple window - a thoughtful pigeon

The owner of this bike came to a screeching stop when he spied this open bakery, emerging with a handful of pastries that he immediately wolfed down

Etienne was ready to go cycling with his parents, but his dad was checking out the frame pump on Vivien George

Etienne and his parents ready to embark on a family ride

Mural on the wall of the lavoir in Saint-Nazaire-en-Royans

I crossed the Isère River in Saint-Nazaire and followed a small road along the canal, one which offered outstanding views of the Vecors massif rising above Pont-en-Royons. I returned to the hotel elated, and anxious to share stories of everyone’s day in the Vercors.

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Today's ride: 19 miles (31 km)
Total: 625 miles (1,006 km)

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Mike AylingHi Susan

It looks like you have a Zefal HPX.
You can change from Presta to Schraeder by unscrewing the outlet part and reversing the little bits inside. There is bound to be a U Tube video on how to do it somewhere.
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2 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Mike AylingHi Mike
Thanks for the tip. We did try unscrewing the cap but couldn’t see a way that would fit a Schraeder- I ‘ll have to see if there is a YouTube video. It’s the 2nd time this trip I’ve not been able to help someone in need of air
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2 weeks ago