When we planned this trip, we knew that Chateauneuf du Pape was 10 km off route, but we really wanted to see it. Now, to get back on the road to Avignon, we passed through the town again. So again we noted the amazingly rocky soil, the many Caves, and the chance to buy no doubt expensive bottles of wine.
The road to Avignon held a few interesting small towns, but the big one was Villeneuve les Avignon, just across the bridge. (No, not that bridge, it only goes part way across!). Villeneuve features Fort St Andre, built in 1292 by Philippe le Bel, a tower named after the same king, an abbey, and etc.
Beyond the Appellation Controlle area, much neater vines.
From 1309 to 1376, Avignon rather than Rome was the seat of the papacy. It started when Clement V, who was French and elected in some kind of hung or troubled conclave, declined to move to Rome. I think the next five guys were also French. The papacy did not move back to Rome smoothly, and for two Avignon Pope's worth (Clement VII and Benoit XIII) there were competing Roman popes. These last two at Avignon are known as the anti-Popes.
Up on the bridge to Avignon closest to the famous one, the town was much larger and more impressive than we had imagined. Photos generally show the famous bridge, with the Papal palace behind, but that is all. In fact the townhas its entire ancient wall intact, and this encloses an area of many many city blocks, most jammed with old buildings.
We descended the bridge, stopping often to gawk at the St Benezet (famous) bridge, the walls, and towers. At the bridge itself we found that it has been turned into a tourist shakedown, with controlled access and a fee. However, this was heritage day, and the fee was waived. However access is by stairs, and we asked the Avignon tourism attendant about where to safely leave our bikes.The answer was the French version of "Get those bikes out of here, they're forbidden, I don't give a damn about your problem, and I won't watch them, not even for 5 minutes." Whether in French or English we will not repeat the comments we then directed to the tourism lady. She also turned her back when offered the chance of a starring role in this blog!
The bridge, of course, is famous in no small part because of the song. There have been many versions of this over the years, and apparently the Canadian one is a recognized variant. All versions, I think, involve dancing on the bridge, and the Canadian version at least includes bows and curtsies. So here are the Grampies, Sur le Pont d'Avignon:
This shows how the wall is intact all around Avignon
The outskirts of Arles (we have not seen the centre yet) has two layers. First there is car dealership land, including a McDonalds. Then there is housing with a sort of Mexican flair. No more stone row houses, here it's stucco villa style. The tourist map of the town shows 40 sites of interest in the old town. Yikes, we will need to rest up, or actually, probably it will be another lightening Grampie ride through!
Across the river at Avignon a rather annoying amusement park
