Day 60: Arles to Aigues-Mortes

September 16, 2013

The centrepiece of Arles is a mostly intact and partially restored colliseum, set in the middle of town and closely surrounded by old stone buildings housing souvenir shops and cafes. There is an admission charge to into the colliseum, but we could see that it has been fitted out with steel seating, so it must be a great concert venue.

Buildings huddle close around rhe colliseum

The tourist shops are offering what to us tourists looks like a great and colourful assortment of stuff. This includes short books about the Camargue and about Provence, that we wish we could buy but that are clearly too heavy. Also Van Gogh stuff and very Spanish looking bullfight and dance stuff.

Tourist stuff often has a bullfighting theme. We understand the bullws of the nearby Camargue are not killed in fightsd.

Here is a classic tourist image of the white horses of the Camargue. We would soon meet these horses in person.

Colourful cards often featuring Van Gogh. Van Gogh spent time here a couple of years before his death, and the period in his work features the bight light and colours of the place.

The map shows 40 monuments and sites to see in the town, but since we are not in go intomstuff mode, our game is to try to absorb the spirit and images of the place. Have a look at some photos and see what you think.

Aside from cafes and museums, the narrow inner city streets house doctors offices and suchlike. To find a grocery we had to step just outside the inner core. despte the presence of the grocery, next to the Subway, next to the Kebab restaurant, Arles retains most of its charm and cachet.

Part of this, for us, is again (as with Avignon) relatd to a song. This time it's Joan Baez's lovely waltz Marie Flore. Here are the lyrics:

MARIE FLORE (Words and Music by Joan Baez)

Marie, Marie Flore was a small girl of ten whom I met in the south end of France. Stepping out of the crowd was the daughter of someone with flowers for me, we were friends at a glance. She spoke no English but sat by my side in the car and pointed out places en route to the village of Arles.

Marie, Marie Flore came to table that night as I dined in an ancient hotel. The room was all fitted with things from the seventeenth century and they suited her well. She would eat nothing but sat in her chair like a queen and laughed at my French but seemed always to know what I'd mean.

Marie, Marie Flore came to hear me that night when I sang for the people of Arles. She stood back in the shadows of a ruined arena, her frame in my mind was never too far. In the rush that did follow I found she was holding my hand and ushering me through an evening the elders had planned.

Marie, Marie Flore, I will always remember your eyes, your smile and your grace. The gold that flowed with your laughter remains to enlighten the image I have of your face. For I have seen children with faces much wiser than time, and you, my Marie, are most certainly one of this kind.

Marie, Marie Flore, all the odds say I see you again by plan or by chance. But if not you'll be there when I'm dreaming of rain over Paris or sun on the south end of France. Marie, Marie, Marie Flore.

We made our way up onto the bridge leading out of Arles, and paused for a look back at the town. No sign of Subway from this angle. We also looked at the Rhone. This is sort of goodbye for us and the Rhone. Not far from here it splits into the Grand and the Petit Rhone, and while the Grand faithfully carries on to the sea, the attention shifts to the delta between the grand and petit, the Camargue.

Goodbye to the Rhone - it's been quite a ride!

The Camargue a wetland area that includes both fresh and salt water ponds. from a tourist's point of view it is about wild white horses, herds of black bulls, flamingoes, salt production, the various grasses, wine, birds, and other plants and animals. Our route just skirts the north end, through the towns of Saint Gilles and Aigues-Mortes.

We were in Saint Gilles at lunch time, when all of France shuts down for the 2 1/2 hours necessary to dine. We spent our time (30 minutes, though) sitting on the stone steps of the pilgrim's welcome centre in the main square. Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella remains a big thing throughout Europe.We are getting very used to old town centres, just steeped in character. But hey, Saint Gilles was steeped in character. Just outside, though, the interest was just a little different as things looked rather Mexican, or Spanish I guess.

The rather Mexican look outside Saint Gilles

The pilgrim centre. The church has UNESCO designation as part of the pilgrim route

The shell symbol on the pilgrim centre. We are travellers, not pilgrims, but still enjoyed the shady steps.

Our first plan was to follow the Rhone to Sete canal, after Saint Gilles.However, the path first became rough and then became closed. So we had no option but to swerve a little deeper into the Camargue, before being able to reach Aigues-Mortes. This produced our best experience of the day.

We had already seen some white horses, both at a distance and a little closer, and were pretty excited about it. But now as we followed the track by the canal, ten wild horses stood right before us. We slowly pedalled towards them, snapping photos and gently ringing our bells, expecting them to scatter. No such thing. In fact some who had been in the tall grass came up to have a look at us. We had no idea if these horses could be dangerous, but we slowly waded in among them. One came over and gave Dodie a kiss. They were so beautiful, and gentle. What an honour to walk among them! Violet, these were not Unicorns, but really the next thing to it, and they are free in this vast grassland.

White horses of the Camargue - blocking our way

White horses of the Camargue - no interest in moving

On leaving the canal, we had gambled on which road lead to Aigues-Mortes, but as we cruised down (with a tail wind we could regret if we had to backtrack) we came upon a group of approaching cyclists. They turnedout to be from Hershey, Pennsylvania and were wearing Ragbrai and Harrisburg Cycle shirts. We have been in Hershey, so naturally this was a fun meeting. The group was on a barge/cycle trip to Avignon, and were coming from Aigues-Mortes, so they could confirm we were ok.

A little further down the road we came upon a fellow about our age, on his way back to Spain from Avignon. French was our only common language and a second language for both, but we managed well enough. Our new friend had done this trip several several times, and could advise us about the whereabouts of official and wild camping. He cycled along with us for about 10 km, and we conversed as well as language and road noise would allow.

Though we now had good info about where to camp, when we hit Aigues-Mortes not that long before dark, we decided to dive into a motel rather than cycle another 10 km. Aigues-Mortes we later learned is an intact walled medieval fortress. But the outskirts has motels and some largish stores, like InterMarche. Our motel room has a small courtyard and exteme luxuries, like a bathtub, and soap. Cost was 55 euros.

It's a little weird, because we are here without a storm outside, or being injured or exhausted. We even strolled over to the InterMarche and strolled around, without desperately searching for some critical supply. How crazy is that!

This lady from the national research institute was engagesd ina ten year study of Camargue grasses

There is quite an interet in bulls here, and six bull herds that you can visit.

Roadside stands are frequently seen here. Torro sausage and camargue rice are commonly sold.

Large succulents roadside. So far we have seen only one palm tree, though.

Our deteriorated track, we soon bailed and headed deepr into the Camargue, but oin a better road.

We thought these things near the surface could be Shrieking Eels, since we had already seen several Rodents of Unusual Size by the roadside. However, the blowp shows these to be carp like fish.

A wine domain, chateau Montcalm, along the way.

Here the vines are growing on the flat, not in rocks but in sand.

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 4,092 km (2,541 miles)

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