May 24, 2025
Day 13 Ticonderoga to Long Lake
Slogging through the Adirondacks
8.7 mph (not setting any records here)
Today was wicked hard. It was cold and rainy. Again. I think I underestimated the Adirondacks. The White Mountains have high spiky peaks on the elevation chart. Same thing with the Green Mountains. These mountains are different, but just as, or even more, difficult than NH or VT. Maybe it was the low 40 temps or the persistent rain that complicates the comparison, but still…. I think Buddy and Doc may agree.
I woke at the usual time, 6am-ish, and checked the forecast. Rain was projected to stop at 8 so I waited. But I saw the rain lightening up so got riding at 7:20. Again, like yesterday, it did not work. All day it was drizzle, or rain, or cold overcast skies. Eight plus hours of that weather made the day more of a slog than it would have been with just the climbs.
So I left “Ti” (I discovered later on this ride that locals call Ticonderoga, “Ti”) and within two miles, hit the “wall”. A three mile climb that rivals the Kancamagus. After that, things were rolling, some climbs, but generally manageable. It was a major state road, but traffic was lighter because of the holiday weekend. The rain and drizzle were persistent, and the wet asphalt makes the passing cars sound more ominous. I appreciate the cars that give a wide swath in passing, but still many that don’t do enough. There was a nice side road that took me along beautiful Lake Severance and some dirt back roads.
After some miles (maybe 25?) I came upon a local flea market just starting up. I stopped and rested for awhile and checked out the booths on display. No coffee place though! It was nice to see the local community coming together for this. It seemed most knew each other, and they were very friendly to me, suggesting where I could store my bike and asking questions about the ride. They offered my a cookie! One man I talked to told me he was from “Ti”. Now I know how to say it.
The Blue Ridge Road was right next to the flea market so after about 20 minutes, losing hope that coffee would arrive, I started again. I was cold. All the warmth built up from riding was gone and now it was just wind and rain against my sweat drenched body. But I build up some heat from riding after a couple of miles and was ok. The Blue Ridge (by default, any road with “Ridge” in its name will be hard) was hard. The road was lined by deep forest and occasionally by some bodies of water, but hills all along the way. Sometimes climbs back to back and some that were “gap” worthy.
After 19 miles of Blue Ridge, I was connected to route 28N for the remainder of the ride. I was hoping for any sign of civilization along this 20ish mile but saw little. No convenience stores or cafes. It was pretty desolate. Even Newport, which seem to “a place” had signs pointing to a fair opening and that gave me hope it might have a town center. I passed a hot dog shack, but blew it off, thinking Newport “center” would have something. Then I saw the “Leaving Hancock” sign. It was a bust. I could not even find a recreational shelter for rain protection. So, I had to have my own roadside break.
This part of the ride was a long series of “highway” climbs - they may or may not register as Garmin climbs, but they are 4-7% long stretches of highway that keep coming and coming. And, while the sun peeked through a a few times, it was a head fake, and it was back to cloudy, light rain, and cold. My impatience grew and grew and finally, looking for signs of civilization, I saw the sign “Long Lake Hamlet” (no Hamlets in NE) and a few miles later rode downhill into Long Lake - a small group of stores AND a Stewart’s convenience store, which in my view at this stage in the ride deserved two Michelin stars. I packed up some libations, snacks, and a sub for dinner and headed to the Sandy Point Motel.
At the Sandy Point, right on the lake, I check in with David, the owner. He grew up in Sudbury, lived in Newton, but was born IN ARLINGTON,MA AT SYMMES HOSPITAL!! What??? I grew up (and still live) in Arlington, and my parents, brothers, sisters and I lived next to the SYMMES HOSPITAL! It’s a small world.
Tomorrow is a planned short ride to Inlet - smaller than Long Lake. The forecast shows rain, but let’s hope it’s short-lived and my clothes dry in time.
Today's ride: 62 miles (100 km)
Total: 508 miles (818 km)
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1 week ago