August 28, 2023: Ovar to Aveiro - Portus Cale's Atlantic Coast (Tour 24) - 2023 🇵🇹 - CycleBlaze

August 28, 2023

August 28, 2023: Ovar to Aveiro

Making new friends

Accommodations: Family Hostel Guesthouse (9)

I think we are now fully adjusted to the new time and I was well awake at alarm time so I got up to do the regular gathering of gear before heading out - but only so much as we need some things after breakfast.

Getting ready and packed at our guest house before meeting with Roberto and Tiago. -- Ovar, Portugal
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Breakfast was at 830 am and we ate it in the dining room with a young couple from Bilbao who are cycling from Figueira da Foz to Porto, which is the exact opposite to us. They are not enjoying the same tailwind we have so he is enjoying the riding while she is looking foward to getting to Porto.

Breakfast was bread, sweet cake, ham and cheese - tasty but no fresh fruit. We had told our friends that we would be outside around 915 am so we quickly got ready and as we were loading the bikes, our host said our friends had arrived. We stepped outside to a couple of young Portuguese fellows who I felt I knew as I have watched a number of their Youtube cycling videos (Cycling Tugas) and exclaimed to them that I felt like I already knew them!

We chatted a few minutes to determine the best route - they said that if we started from Ovar to cover their route, the first portion would not be too interesting, would have some tricky bits and could be up to 60 km long. Not sure this was a good idea, they, we and our hosts decided we'd take a train to Roberto's and Tiago's hometown of Estarreja (about a fifteen minute train ride after a 15 minute wait for the train). We were able to roll the bikes on and off of the train and were quickly whisked away at 120 km/h.

Roberto and Tiago are the most gracious of hosts, guides and friends. They told us about how some of the fields were where Roberto's grandfather used to tend to his cattle so he knew the whole area with his eyes closed. The route started out on gravel and paved roads then became dirt roads through the fields then through forested areas with a dark, heavy canopy of leaves. It was absolutely beautiful! We could not have asked for a better cycling day or companions. We chatted with the cousins and compared our countries, discussed our tours (this past spring Roberto had suggested that I follow the Linha da Sabhor rail trail which they had also done), and tours we want to do in the future. They also discussed their work - Roberto is a flight attendant for Ryanair and lives with his girlfriend in Majorca, Tiago manages a trucking company and is based in Aveiro. When their schedules permit, they try to do a cycle trip together.

Pausing along the path through the farmland and mud flats with Roberto Sousa, Tiago Sousa and Alex. -- Canelas, Portugal
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Roberto, Tiago and I stopping along the cycle paths for a break to chat. -- Canelas, Portugal
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Tiago Sousa with us at one of the numerous stops we made to chat. -- Canelas, Portugal
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This is what it's all about - Alex, Roberto and I along the great cycle paths they knew like the back of their hand. -- near Aveiro, Portugal (photo courtesy of Tiago Sousa)
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The cycling and chatting went on as we eventually ended up along another raised wooden path which became busier as we approached Aveiro. Too soon, we were in the city and alongside the canals as we approached the centre. They had mentioned a bike shop they like that is also a cafe and a pub so we stopped and sat on their patio, being able to leave the bikes in the bike shop portion and they had a beer and we had a Sumol. And of course, chatted some more.

Alex had expressed an interest in the salt pools so we headed out to the edge of town where we saw the dozens of increasingly briney pools. There was a big mound of salt and Alex was keen to have a little lick and found it to be... salty, but with a hint of gritty sand.

Alex approaching another boardwalk as we neared our destination town. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Roberto and Tiago at a cycle shop, cafe and pub combination after our ride. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Just at the edge of the city are the old salt flats where the brine is concentrated until salt can be harvested. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Alex was so intrigued with the salt harvesting and wanted to see what it tasted like - salt with a bit of grit in it. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Steve Miller/GrampiesSteve did the same thing at the same place. The salt he tasted was also....salty. It sure looks like you too are having a great time, and we are enjoying both following along and also reliving our trip over the same terrain.
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8 months ago
Brent IrvineYes, we're having an amazing tour.
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8 months ago
Alex was so intrigued with the salt harvesting and wanted to see what it tasted like - salt with a bit of grit in it. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Alex was so intrigued with the salt harvesting and wanted to see what it tasted like - salt with a bit of grit in it. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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There were dozens of the brine concentrating pools. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Alex enjoying a chat with our new Portuguese friend, Tiago Sousa. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Next we headed back to town where we went to a restaurant they suggested called Zig Zag. We left our bikes against the glass so we could keep and eye on them and connected them together with a lock and a bungee cord. There was no problem with the bikes while we were inside eating.

We all ordered the same meal which is traditional to the area - 'alheira de Mirandela' sausage with potatoes and green beans. It was quite tasty and light since a major ingredient in the sausage is bread. After lunch they were excited to bring us to a very popular booth by the canal where they were selling tripa de Aveiro - like a thin crepe lathered with the flavour of your choice. Alex and I split one with chocolate and Nutella. Need I say more?

Roberto and Tiago insisted on guiding us to our accommodations which was just up and around the corner from the tripas booth. I rang the doorbell and down came the host - who reminded me of a young Mr. Dressup (I suppose a Portuguese Mr. Dressup, though). He ushered me upstairs to get the paper work done, give me the key, explain breakfast and allow me to keep the bikes in the room. The room is not huge, but plenty big enough for the bikes. Safe bikes = no bike stress.

Then the saddest part of the day had arrived. It was about 4 pm and the Sousas were ready to head home via the train. In such a short time it felt like we had known them forever. This is what happens when you meet good people.

We glumly took our bikes up to the room, I showered then both of us slowly drifted toward an eye-closed late afternoon. It was not until 8 pm or later that we headed out for a wee stroll before returning to the room to call it an evening.

We went up the street for a snack where we saw the mother and baby jars - Nutella and Nutellita (my term). -- Aveiro, Portiugal
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And while there took a quick pic of the largest spread of Milkas I have seen in a while. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Just down the street from our accommodations. Packed during the say with tourists, the canal area is much quieter at night. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Just down the street from our accommodations. Packed during the say with tourists, the canal area is much quieter at night. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Just down the street from our accommodations. Packed during the say with tourists, the canal area is much quieter at night. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Just down the street from our accommodations. Packed during the say with tourists, the canal area is much quieter at night. -- Aveiro, Portugal
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Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 126 km (78 miles)

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