To Estaing

June 7, 2008

Today’s was one of the easiest days of the tour, as well as one of its highlights. The Lot is such a stellar river to cycle along, and this stretch is one of the best. Just fifteen miles from Conques we came to the fascinating ancient town of Entreyguez; fifteen miles later we came to Estaing, an important stop on the route to Compostella. We ended the day here, but another ten or fifteen miles upriver we’ll come on the next day to another delightful riverside town, Espallion. Four beautiful medieval towns all within 45 miles of each other, each well worth an overnight stand or longer.

With a short, easy day we had plenty of time to linger and explore the market in Entreygues; and at the end of the day there was time for a riverside hike from Estaing, a hike I’d completely forgotten about until staring at the photo of the two horses below trying to recreate the circumstances. They were standing astride the hiking path, with no other way to get back to our hotel than to gingerly skirt around them. We stared at them for several minutes hoping they’d move on before finally choosing the side that looked the least hazardous. Is it worse to get nipped or kicked? Fortunately we didn’t find out.

An interesting historical note, that I just learned in writing up this day. The Estaing castle was purchased in 2005 by Valéry Giscard d'Estaing, the former president of France. I hadn’t connected the two names before, but apparently he had a remote ancestral relationship with the castle. Giscard, the longest-lived French President, died at the age of 94 in 2020 (just last year), of Covid.

The medieval bridge across the Truyère at Entreygues, completed in 1340 and still in use.

From across the Lot we got our best view of Estaing, with a good perspective on its 15th century castle and church and 16th century bridge.

Very pretty, but not really what you want to see in the middle of your path.

One of our better bedroom views, in Estaing looking down on the bridge across the Lot. This was on one of the major French routes to Compostela, the one originating in Le Puy-en-Velay.

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Ride stats: 30 miles, 900’; for the tour: 869 miles, 30,800’

Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 796 miles (1,281 km)

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