Don't slam doors, it can ruin people!: Verona to Venice
We spent our last day in Verona exploring Sirmione on the Lago do Garda. We took a local bus out and just wandered around, dodging all the other tourists in the narrow streets. It is a stunning place. The castle even has its own protected moorage, built in I don't know what century. A long time ago, trust me. I had some fun looking at license plates while we walked lakeside, and they were almost all Italian. I was expecting to see more German plates. The weather was stunning, so we imagine we weren't the only day trippers either.
We had to change accommodation because our wonderful B and B the Corso Porto Nuova 39 didn't have a room Friday night. It is the most charming place, just three rooms, and we were sorry to leave. The fact that the owner also owns the bar below the inn was a great bonus. We will be back though, as they are keeping Keith's bike for us while we are in Venice.
We walked across the street to the B and B Primavera. Trust me, you would never have this kind of experience in a five star hotel. There are huge advantages to budget travel. We booked the room quickly and in Italian, and didn't check one key factor - no private bath. But that wasn't the first surprise. The incredibly hard working woman who runs the place spoke not a word of English and had peppered the place with handwritten notes with various rules. They all made sense, but I almost didn't make it in the front door when I saw this one.
Now I had had a Campari (or two) and was laughing so hard I was almost crying...silently of course, as loud laughter might ruin people too. It says, in case the picture is too small "Please don't slam doors! It disturbs others and ruins them." Now I never want to be responsible for ruining anyone, so we were very careful.
Keith's personal favourite was about where you could place your luggage (pretty much only the floor) although I did walk on the wild side and put my suitcase on the bed when packing. Keith kept quoting the sign to me while I did that. Coming a close second was the note about the two chickens that had been robbed. We had a wonderful time, and trust me, the proprietor deserved and received all our respect. She was certainly older than I am and was working very, very hard. You have to wonder about the person who 'robbed' her chickens. Who could do that to someone so hardworking?
Keith's favourite. He would repeat it to me in a way that made me laugh so hard. It was just such an eccentric sort of place to stay.
And one more. Since I speak nary a word of Italian I can't imagine even attempting these notes in Italian, and they did get the point across. We also understood perfectly, but we did get a good laugh.
Then came the main event. Bocelli in the arena. What an experience. It was an absolutely perfect evening, not a breath of wind, acoustics that were incredible and the show was spectacular. It included figure skating, three world champions, one of whom was Evegni Pleshenko. I follow figure skating a little, Keith hardly does it all, but when he came out even Keith exclaimed "Oh my goodness, it's what's his name!" I burst into laughter. What a charismatic skater he is. It was simply amazing.
Bocelli sang solo and with various opera stars. There was a full orchestra, chorus, I could go on and on. To watch from a Roman arena was the icing on the cake. Watching Verona's movers and shakers come into the expensive seats in their gowns and elaborate outfits was a treat too, and the whole filling and emptying of the arena was a spectacle. One of those once in a lifetime experiences.
When he sang 'Time to Say Goodbye' I thought we would both swoon.
We were on the 9:21 train to Venice the next morning and arrived around 10:30. We stepped out of the train station and there she was in all her glory. My second visit, Keith's first. We immediately ran into two bike tourers from Munich and had a long chat. Lovely couple. They rode their bikes from Milan and had had a wonderful tour. They were about to get on the train for the trip home.
Our hotel was close to the train station and Keith used his well honed navigational skills to get us there quickly. We dropped off the luggage and started exploring immediately. Venice is full. I can't imagine what it is like in July and August. I have a new theory on Venice sinking...I think it is the sheer number of people walking through the narrow streets, which is exactly what we were doing. You just have to embrace it. Both yesterday and today Keith and I just walked, guided by his trusty Galileo app and exploring the quiet streets and alleys much of the time. You don't have to go very far to have the place to yourself. We did the Piazza St. Marco of course, and poked our noses into some of the churches, but we like to explore on foot. We did do the Peggy Guggenheim Modern Art Museum and we're both very underwhelmed. We are enjoying Venice. It hasn't really changed much since I was last here. More people, fewer pigeons and yes, a Disney Store. Seriously.
Heading to the Verona train station, rolling bag in hand and feeling reasonably independent.
We walked until early evening when I could walk no more, and then found a lovely local deli and picked up cheese, olives, red wine etc. and headed back to the room so I could sit and recover. We intended this to be the first course and then go out for dinner, but we didn't make it out. I needed a rest. A great day and we have two more full days here to keep exploring. Perfect.
