From Panaji up the coastline to Morjim

January 10, 2011

North Goa

The odd thing about Panaji is that hotels here want you packed and checked-out by 9:00. Mine actually said 8:00, but there was no way.... must be joking. Anyway, it's guaranteed me an early-ish start.

It was really a 500-rupee room, not 850, and why tourists come here is a mystery. I've ridden around Panaji and seen nothing to write home about.

There's a bridge across the wide Mandovi River to Betim and that's what I take to go north.

There are beaches along the coast, but it's hard to know about small roads linking them up... many are cul-de-sacs no doubt. I'll find out soon enough.

The bridge is busy as are the city streets to get there and it's not a bunch of fun riding along the long narrow span. The turnoff left is straight after the northern edge and the small road veering west off the NH 17 is narrow and commuters are zipping along it.

After a while - maybe 5 km - I see a left going to some beach and think to myself: 'give it a try'.

The time is 10:00 and the lane is quiet and it's a nice feeling to be able to let my shoulders drop and relax a bit. I've really no idea where this road goes and I meander around and get lost cycling north... south... east then west.

It's 11 o'clock when I cruise along a deserted lane and drop to a junction and see the turnoff that I took at 10:00. How about that?

I ride on to the main place on my map for a short while, but veer off on other beach roads, then spot a cafe where the friendly woman behind the counter seems to know my wants are and suggests a chicken burger, which sounds just right with some fries and a banana shake and a cold coffee.

I follow up with another juice and a piece of chocy desert.

This is a proper vacation.

It's hot again out there and I don't want to move from the the cafe with its decoration of red yet a feeling cool and funky merged with a kind of 60s retro vibe.

The woman tells me she hails from Bangalore and opened the cafe just three months ago.

There are a few white churches around but it's hard to say how old they are. My camera gets used a few times and progress is slow again.

I head for beach places named on the map and drink juice when stalls appear. At one I have five sugarcane ones. Great stuff!

My energy seems low today.

There's another bridge and when I eventually get to it I ride across and then follow signs for Morjim, then head along the narrow beach road and see a chalkboard that talks about Wi-fi being offered and reckon as my Eee PC is knackered this might be a good option for the night and the guy shows me a 600-rupee room, which is okay, so I wheel my bike around to the porch, unpack and shower.

The room is basic.

The beach is just across the dinky, potholed road and I walk across and snap off some beach photos and spot a man on a bike wearing a blue baseball cap and white clothes coming from the north who's selling ice cream from a metal cooler on his rear rack.

When he stops I ask about how far he can go on the sand and after a bit of a little discussion he says 15 km to the north and this gives me an idea for tomorrow.

He sells me an ice-lolli for 50 rupees, which is over-the-top.

As the sun goes down I walk back across to the beach and stay there for a while. The light changes quite fast. The sky glows. There's a white cross erected on a rock and someone has left a garland around it.

When it's dark and after taking some pictures, I stroll back and have prawns at the guesthouse's cafe/bar with a bottle of cold beer. They've a video projector running and there's a movie I've never seen about West Ham football supporters and their firm. It's just about watchable.

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 2,975 km (1,847 miles)

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