Coasting back to Athens

April 3, 2022

Today's ride was going to be much shorter, but I was also on a deadline: I had to be in Poros by 2pm, to catch the only boat back to Athens on a Sunday. (Not that being forced to spend an extra day on a lovely Greek island would be absolutely the worst fate in the world -- but my bosses might take a different view, I suppose.)

Last night's check-in process at my hotel was fairly laid-back (in that, I was told just to head upstairs and go to the room with a key in its door), so I wasn't quite sure if or when breakfast might happen, but I optimistically ambled downstairs at 8am and found that some baskets of bread and cheese were being prepared. Even better: a small piece of bougatsa -- the cycling breakfast of champions.

This (and a few cups of coffee) was very much needed for the first (and hardest) bit of cycling of the day -- the payback for yesterday afternoon's dream descent, in the form of a 200m-in-2km grind back up from the coast. At least I had the road entirely to myself, though. And (as always) the views...

About half way up the first climb of the day, looking south towards the Methana peninsula.

A bit further up: about to join the (old) main road, cutting round the headland. That's the Methana peninsula ahead, again, and Aegina to its left.

After this rather brutal, if beautiful, warm up, I got to the first reward of the day: a stretch of coastal riding along one of the nicest roads I think I've ridden in Greece (and quite high up in my All Time Road Rankings, in fact). This is another road which used to be a main route, but has now been superseded by a more efficient (i.e. less scenic) road a bit further inland. So now it's mostly left for tourists and cyclists (or, this cyclist anyway; I didn't see any others!) to enjoy.

Along the coast road. It's like this for about 15km...

There are a few climbs/descents, but because it was built as a main road the grades are pretty forgiving.

And even a short galleria, in case the sun's getting a bit hot.

Things get very slightly less scenic (though still far from ugly) at the village of Kalloni, where I stopped for quick break in a cafe which, I strongly suspect, sees very few foreigners, or women, or cyclists. The appearance of all three at once caused a certain amount of consternation, but the owner managed to produce a good frappe once he'd got over the surprise.

Sadly I reached Kalloni too early in the day to be able to fact-check this very persuasive bit of roadside advertising ('Passing through Kalloni??? Try our souvlakia. You will be amazed!!!')

The road flattens out for a bit now, passing by the coastal wetlands of Psifta. I didn't stop for birdwatching, though, because -- once more -- I had an archaeological objective in mind: the remains of the Sanctuary of Hippolytus, part of the ancient city of Troezen, a little bit inland. So I turned off the main road and headed up a short way into the hills, following increasingly tiny roads through increasingly lovely scenery.

When I get to the place where I think the site should be, I have to double check the map. But eventually I notice a small path running through the overgrown field, and at the other end of it I find the thing I was looking for: another healing sanctuary, of which very little now remains -- but it's still good to see it.

Sanctuary of Hippolytus: entrance to the site. I have a feeling that it doesn't get very many visitors...

But there is (a bit!) more to see, for those willing to persist.

Most of the Classical sanctuary building ended up in this Byzantine church (as usual!)

It's a lovely (and deserted) spot -- but time is passing, so I retrace my steps through the flowery meadow, retrieve my bike, and carry on through the citrus groves, and back down towards the coast.

Troezen is the birthplace of Theseus, which provides openings for some opportunistic marketing from the local Tourist Board.

I'm heading for Galatas, a place I last visited more than twenty-five years ago, and where I have a strong memory of eating some particularly good loukoumades. It's now quite a long time since my breakfast bougatsa, so the thought of a deep-fried snack spurs me on for the last few km into town. When I get there, though, the loukoumades shops are nowhere to be found: did they fall victim to the lockdowns? Or is it possible that my memory has deceived me? This calls for more research -- and perhaps one or more repeat visits...

For now, though, the absence of doughnuts means that I can jump straight on to the next ferry, which is just about to start its short shuttle-run over the strait to Poros. And then, jump straight off again when the -- much more patient than I deserve -- ticket collector observes that I need to buy a ticket from the little booth on the harbour. That task completed, I get back on the boat (which had kindly waited for me -- a good job, since I'd left my bike on it) for the 5 minute ride over to the island.

Poros is bustling: the cafes are full of families enjoying Sunday coffees and pancakes, while their children work off apparently boundless energy charging around the squares. I have time to visit the small but good museum (which has the finds from Troezen, among other places), and for a quick (but also good) fish lunch on the seafront, before heading towards the ferry for the slow but soothing chug back to Athens.

Waiting for the ferry, I finally meet another touring cyclist: an Italian, heading (ultimately) to Thailand. We exchange touring tales (and agree on the general excellence of cycling in Greece).

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Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 395 km (245 miles)

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