September 2, 2023
"Sausages Ahead!" Les Saisies to Bourg St. Maurice
I enjoyed my evening in Les Saisies. Its main business is winter sports, so it was largely in hibernation mode, but there's something quite nice about out-of-season resorts, I think, and there was just enough life still in the place to make it seem welcoming. Also open was the 'Mountain Twister' all-weather luge ride, which rattled/whooped down just outside my hotel window. I was tempted to give it a whirl, remembering some exhilarating spins down a similar thing in my local theme park when I was a child; but then I also remembered how many broken legs that ride used to generate, pictured some Awkward Explanations if I had to make a repeat appearance at the fracture clinic in Durham Hospital, and generally thought better of it.
So, still in one piece, and after a very good breakfast (featuring an entire table full of local jams: shamefully I failed to document this...), I hit the road again, enjoying -- first of all - the payback for all yesterday's climbing: 15km of (almost) unbroken descent.
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Of course this was too good to last, and the road first flattened out and then, after Beaufort (where I resisted the temptation to load up on cheese), tilted upwards.
Following the wise advice of the internet, I turned off the main 'Route des Grandes Alpes' here, and headed instead towards the small village of Arêches. This had the immediate advantage of taking me past a very nice boulangerie, where I stopped for a second breakfast, and the longer-term benefit of routing me up a much smaller road, quite well-frequented by cyclists, but almost completely free of motorbikes and cars. The disadvantage, as might be predicted, was that it was a bit steep. But beautiful!
Eventually, the top arrived, and with it, the return of even more spectacular views.
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It was just after noon by now, and so when a mountain restaurant appeared, just at the top of the descent, it seemed foolish not to stop. And when I saw the view from their terrace: doubly foolish.
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After my Tripe Misadventure last year, I was trying to be more cautious about sticking to a google-before-ordering-mystery-things rule, but the menu was full of something called 'Diot', and I didn't have any mobile signal, and hey -- what's the worst that can happen? (The worst, as previously established, is a giant bowl of Tripe Stew...). Anyway: it turns out that Diot is a type of delicious Savoyard Sausage. Perfect cycling food! (Esp. with added cheese on toast...)
The only slight constraint on my enjoyment of my lunch was the fact that that lovely view I was enjoying was also the next hill that I had to climb up: the Cormet de Roselend. (Which featured in the men's Tour de France this year; the people on the neighbouring table to me were reminiscing about that day...). So I dragged myself out of my seat, and set off again: initially downhill, then over the dam, round the lake, and then -- slowly! -- up the other side.
I was back on the main 'Route des Grandes Alpes' now, so things were a bit busier -- more motorbikes, but also more cyclists. The latter were all very encouraging as they whizzed past. My very favourite cry, not far from the top: 'Courage! Il y a des saucissons au bout!'. And indeed: there were Sausages Ahead! (Sold by a small stall which occupied the summit.)
The sausages looked good, but both my panniers and I were pretty full, so I resisted the temptation and turned, instead, towards Bourg St Maurice -- not far away, but the descent was a bit steep and twisty in places, so I was happy to get back to the valley floor before my front brake pads completely gave up the ghost.
Back on terra firma, I celebrated with a drink in a cafe in town, before rolling on to my hotel, to celebrate again with more Diot (this time on a pizza: what a versatile food!)
Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 151 km (94 miles)
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