June 8, 2023 to June 9, 2023
Manosque and Aix en Provence
Heading south and homewards
Thursday: In Manosque - we spend a relaxing day in the old town and go out for lunch. This part of town is bounded by old multi storey apartments and can be entered through the portentous town portals. These look, and in fact, are, the gateway in the old castle walls. Inside the walls there are narrow streets and trees and places where it’s pleasant to sit.
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It’s shady and cool on a hot day and in a quiet and relaxed square we take a table and select the plat de jour which, though a little underwhelming, is made much more acceptable when accompanied by 500 mils of vin blanc. I have to say, it’s only rarely that we’ve had the experience that many travellers have of rolling up to a modest establishment in the back and beyond and being served up a superb meal. We have come close on a few occasions though.
After our lunch, we continue our wander in the old town and then we begin to understand why there is need for a siesta in this part of the world, and join the movement.
Our apartment gives us superb views looking south. We can’t identify all of the hills and peaks on the horizon, but the evening light provides a clarity that enables us to see several massifs and all the way to the Alpes Maritime.
Friday: we head to Aix on Provence. On the train. We have discussed cycling but hadn’t investigated a route, so decided to give SCNF our custom. After retrieving our bikes from the lock up, we load up and find a greenway which delivers us to the Manosque Gare.
After using the lift, we’re soon on the quai with a large group of giggling teenage girls, young mothers with children and old people- all headed to Aix or Marseilles. The train rolls in and there’s a bit of a crush getting on. SNCF staff usually watch this happen in a detached sort of way, rarely trying to help organise- maybe it’s not in their job description. There’s not much space for our bikes and the young students already ensconced in seats show little inclination to move. I recall being a little surprised in London when a young person offered us their seat. Gracefully declined of course. No danger of that today. This is a short ride though, and soon, we’re in Aix.
Our immediate impression once we’re out of the gare is of wide open streets, beautiful orange stone buildings, trees and an abundance of fashionably dressed men and women. Fountains seem to be a feature as is referencing of their favourite son, who pauses for a photo opportunity with me. Cezanne lived and died here, and this is acknowledged by lots of plaques liberally spread throughout.
After a brief visit to the tourist office for some useful maps, we find a quiet seat in the large open space for lunch. Abou 3:00 we head up to an apartment we’ve taken on, which is a 10 minute ride beyond St Savieur’s Cathedral.
We’ve been sent copious instructions, even a video, about how to enter this apartment area. We manage to open the main gate, find the Dropbox and it all works out after a bit of trial and error.
We’re soon relaxing with a cuppa. Interestingly, although the apartment is relatively new, and expensive, ( by our modest standards) again, we have been supplied only one toilet roll for three days. Possibly enough. But generosity never did any harm. Is there a nationwide shortage? I WhatsApp our contact, Valerie, and she tells me: ‘For the toilet roll we furnish only à kit then you’re supposed to buy what you need.’ Superfluously, I ‘Merci beaucoup’ and breezily she wishes me a ‘bon sējour.’
Later we enjoy a walk in the warm evening air to buy necessary supplies, including you know what.
Today's ride: 13 km (8 miles)
Total: 1,695 km (1,053 miles)
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10 months ago
10 months ago