June 16, 2025
La Caldera
Last night's digs had a number of irritating issues, mostly to do with poor workmanship on the part of the plumber whose work in the bathroom kitchen much to be desired. So I wasn't in the best frame of mind when we headed out some time after ten o'clock.
My gloomy mood wasn't improved on us finding out that today was a public holiday marking the death of General Martín Miguel de Güemes who defended northwestern Argentina from the Spanish royalist army during the Argentine War of Independence. A town about fifty kilometers away is named after him. We had planned to ride this route on a weekday to avoid the notoriously heavy weekend traffic. Now the weekend has been extended to include Monday!
Our fears were unfounded and the poor approach to the day was corrected within a few kilometers. Ruta 9 between El Carmen and La Caldera is a narrow and winding road that doesn't suit itself to fast traveling motorized traffic. The overwhelming majority of cars and motorcycles that past us seemed to be enjoying the magnificent subtropical montane forest views. There were also lots of other cyclists testing themselves on the big climb between the two towns. It was one of the best rides we have had on this trip.
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The climb provided 860 meters of effort but the gradients were never more than 7 percent. It was an enjoyable but slow climb through the forest before a short run down to La Caldera.
Finding accommodation proved to be a challenge. Arriving at about two thirty we were right in the middle of the siesta on the last day of a long weekend. I think it was the seventh number that I called that was the first to be answered, I'm assuming the rest were asleep. Unfortunately that establishment had a policy of of a minimum of two nights accommodation but they did give us a recommendation that just happened to be meters away from where we were standing.
So we have a rustic but comfortable cabaña for the night. Overpriced but this is a tourist town and we were short of options.
We have a couple of nights booked in an apartment in Salta starting from tomorrow. Salta is only twenty five kilometers but the day after tomorrow is forecast to be cold and wet so we will shelter there for a day.
Today's ride: 49 km (30 miles)
Total: 1,464 km (909 miles)
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