Day 43: Castillonnes to Villeneuve sur Lot

October 8, 2023

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When I saw the large old tub in our BnB it looked like a chance for a long soak, just like at home. But there was a glitch. Turning the valves would cause water to blast out of the top of the fixture. That's because of the missing hand held wand. I was disappointed, but after a while it dawned on me that I could direct the water to the tub and away from the wand with the centre lever. Hooray! Nope. The centre lever was rusted in place. Ok, score -1 for great European shower and tub fixtures!

Turn handle for simulation of Old Faithful, all over the floor!

Just down the highway from town we ran into our first bakery, and a chance to put a baguette sandwich into the food bag. We so much appreciate these family run bakeries, which always stress that they use artisanal methods, quality flour, and have been doing it for ages. In the case of this one, they mention father and son since 1986. I found that touching.

As you can see from the track, we almost immediately deviated from the direct road to Villeneuve and literally took to the hills. We knew we did not have far to go, and we were looking for the smallest roads possible. The land was open and picturesque, and the bright sunlight was very cheery. The only downside of the clear weather early on was that we started with a brisk 10 degrees. And by the end of the day, that clear sky had produced a taxing 34 degrees.

Almost immediately we realized that we were in a major orchard area, and that the main trees were plums. There were acres and acres of them. We were sure of what they were because of the many blue dropped ones at the trees' feet. But we were also disappointed because there was not one plum still on a tree.

The plums were soon joined by acres of hazelnuts. How did we know that they were? Same technique of examining their feet. And here we could have collected buckets of nuts.

There remained huge fields of unharvested sorghum.

We are sure now that this is sorghum. It can be used to make potable alcohol, but in France it is an alternative to corn for cattle feed.

Our efforts to find small roads were completely successful, and we ran by lots of to me exotic sounding places too. In this photo there is also a reference to prunes, eggs, and beef, and with more fruit trees in the background. That reference to prunes would soon take on larger meaning.

The only risk was in accidentally getting Dodie harvested instead of the sorghum.

The hills that I mentioned we took to did not go unnoticed by town builders, who threw up lots of "bastides" in the middle ages. The one below is Saint Pastour. Looking at that wall in front, I naively suggested sneaking around the back. But of course, the walls would normally be circular. I would not ha ve gotten far in 1500!

As we were about to pass by Casseneuil we noticed a sign for the old town, and since we had plenty of time, we dove in. We had also seen a sign about a Sunday market, so we had an eye out for that as we cruised by the Mairie, and an apparent covered market site. The buildings were quaint, but we do like markets.

This old lady told us she had created this entire green space.

We had given up and were leaving town when bingo, we found the market had been put out by some community centre. It was not large, but it did have one big feature - a rotisserie truck. We already had sandwich from that bakery earlier, but we put that aside in favour of 1/2 chicken and some potato.

While Dodie was getting the lady to cut up the chicken with her poultry shears, I walked over to the community hall. A fall fair, or maybe early Christmas sale was in progress.

Something I noticed at the sale was prunes, from a local farm. The ones we had bought in Bergerac had been great tender and juicy, and so were these, based on their free samples.

Best of all, outside the hall a marching band that nevertheless was totally stationary, was thumping up a storm. We noticed that the band members were a mix of young and old, and that all were enjoying the rhythms.

Grandchildren Avi and Violet in Seattle are in a marching band, so I made a longer video for them. But here is a sample:

Directly after the market and the band we fell upon a voie verte, being the one for the river Lot. And that one joined a rail trail that went straight to Villeneuve. That way, our quest for quiet roads ended with real quiet, on the (paved) trails.

Not far from Casseneuil we also came upon the plant of "Mr. Prune". We learned that Mr. Prune is the main employer, and that prunes are a really big deal here. While the principal production of prunes is in California, 2/3 of French production comes from this Lot et Garonne department. Agen is truly the epicentre of the local prune world, and there is something like an AOP for Agen prunes! The plum harvest is from late August to late September, so that's how we missed it. btw, 1 kg of prunes takes 3-4 kg of fresh plums. This no doubt accounts for why 6 or 8 euros does not buy you all that many prunes!

Working with prunes has a long history here.

We found a shady bench by the voie verte and set out our chicken, potatoes, and stuff. It was another idyllic picnic concept, but a basic fact was beginning to be apparent to us. The French people, who will so gleefully stuff a lean pheasant in their hunting bag, also have a generally "wild" approach to domestic poultry, like the pintade (guinea fowl), and even the chicken. Thus, while a broiling or roasting chicken (as we used to raise them) is a plump self satisfied mostly immobile package of tender meat, the BBQ'd chickens we have been running into here are long legged, skinny athletes. They turn out to be mostly bones, and as done up by the workers here, they also include long necks, heads, livers, and anything else mostly inedible they can think of.

Our picnic in its best possible presentation.

But check the length and skinniness of that leg.

The unfortunate victim of our picnic plan.

I think at some level the French realize that a chicken should be more plump and more tender. I mean, look at the bag!

Oh well, you still can't beat that artisanale bakery!

btw, while sitting at our picnic bench, this guy turned up. Oh, oh, it's a stink bug, a bug we don't know at home.

Here we go on the voie verte. The ride today was really easy.

Villeneuve is another bastide, or walled city. It straddles the river Lot, and the parts of town on either side are joined by two bridges. Two main gates to the city remain in operation. The one in the farther north is the Tour (Porte) de Paris, naturally since it faces Paris. And in the south, near the river, is the Tour de Pujols. Pujols is a medieval town a few kms away.

The Tours de Pujols, the way we entered the town.

Over the bridge and into the main part of the old town. That red tower on the right is the red brick Saint Catherine's church, which we will visit later.

This (confusingly to me) is an arcaded area, and not a gate to anywhere in particular.

The town is in two parts, with the Lot running between.

Here on Parmentier Street is a building that in 1264 was the Palais de Justice, or an administrative court. It seems to be unoccupied just now.

The Saint Catherine's church. This was started in 1898, and uses local red brick. It was only finished in 1937.

Most of the upper walls of the church are covered by painted figures of saints.

Leading to the back of the church are screens with these unique paintings.

Here is a closer look at one of those paintings up high.

Many of the column cornices have special decoration, like with carved animals or foliage. This one has some people.

The general appearance of the church. Reading the descriptive pamphlet back at the hotel, I am amazed at how many features we missed.

Our 3 km walk around town.

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Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 2,246 km (1,395 miles)

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Michel FleuranceHello Steve, Dodie
Thank you for your postcard dated Oct 2nd and received today Oct 9, 2023.
Les bons pruneaux d'Agen. My dad used to live in Fleurance. Did you plan a Condom stop-over ? See you next year.

I started biking with some friends and get caught by Covid last week. My first one. I am grounded at home now. My Covid is not very strong, almost finished by now but I remain tired. I have been vacinnated 5 times so far.
Google following to reach
// La Mothe Achard 2023
Balades entre l'Auzance et la Ciboule //
The picture display on Cycle Blaze is very good compare to the blog I am using.

Take care and enjoy the nice weather.
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