Canyon of the Ancients Area, Rural Montezuma County (West of Cortez) to Durango, Colorado

September 10, 2022

Let the Climbing Begin

On this first day, we headed East and back to Durango. Our temporary hideaway was located about 12 miles West of Cortez, near an area called Canyon of the Ancients. This part of Colorado has caves in the rocky cliff walls where indigenous peoples lived thousands of years ago. Some were visible from our cabin. A short hike away, one could get a little closer to some of these dwellings. On the previous evening, we started walking along the trails but after a bit, a severe thunderstorm threatened so we hurried back to the cabin. Rain came to this drought parched area right after we arrived! I think we brought it along with us.

Chuck and Fred hiking along a trail near Canyon of the Ancients.

We started our ride at first light, negotiating the mile long gravel road that led gradually uphill to the main road, Montezuma County Route G. The county road was rolling, winding at times, had very little traffic, and some long straight stretches.

John-F, cruising along, on Montezuma County Route G.

The road runs on pleasantly like this for approximately 10 miles to where it ends at US-491. McElmo Creek is below and roughly parallel. Along the way are often stunning views of the canyon, Mesa Verde, and even Shiprock, lying some 40 miles to the Southwest in the neighboring state of New Mexico. At one point, there is a hairpin turn, where vehicles are instructed to slow down to 15 miles per hour. Having driven and cycled this area, it is recommended that great care be exercised, no matter the means of transportation.

Montezuma County Route G, on the way to the intersection with US-491.

We eventually reached US-491 and turned left and then bore to the right onto US-160, heading North toward the lively business district of Cortez. It was somewhat subdued on this Saturday morning but there was a farmers market going on, so we stopped, looked around, and picked up some produce. A few of the guys "made friends" with a local lady who was working there, good natured, and seemed to know a bit about the area. I also purchased some dog treats that would serve me well later on. After this brief break, we continued East.

A friendly local lady we met at the farmers market in Cortez.

From the center of Cortez, we rode approximately 18 miles to Mancos. US-160 climbs gradually and has some long straight stretches. There are more cars but the shoulders are mostly wide enough to keep a cyclist out of the traffic. Very few (if any reasonable) alternatives exist for avoiding the highway.

Shortly before reaching Mancos, the choice of either taking the old road or using the bypass is presented. We took the old road, Grand Avenue, into the town. It had very little traffic and the town is worth a visit. We stopped for a break at a Cafe called Fahrenheit Coffee Roasters. It had both inside and outside seating, as well as pretty good coffee and food. On this nice morning, we sat outside among local patrons. This was a worthwhile stop before continuing on toward a couple of significant climbs.

The Rabbit Brush plants that grow along the roadsides and with the Sage, provided some good color to the surrounding landscape.

After leaving Mancos and getting back on the road, I stopped at a tourist trap along US-160 that had replicas of a teepee and giant arrows stuck in the ground around it. Inside, I bought a couple of arrowhead souvenirs for my grandsons. This began my rock collection during this trip. By the end, I joked that I was bringing the better parts of Colorado and Utah back home with me. My grandsons were very happy with all of the different rocks.

A Randy Travis song, "Digging Up Bones," was playing inside and the cashier lady became friendlier after I commented on the song. She then proceeded to tell me there were two big climbs coming. She referred to them as Mancos Hill, the first and then Durango West, which was closer to the Hesperus Skiing Area and Durango city. I thanked her for her concern and for the information. She wished me safe travels and I wished her a good rest of her day.

The guys and I had listened to Fred's copy of Ken Burns' Country Music Documentary on the long drive out here. It is a very well done history of the genre as well as having in depth commentary on the lives and careers of many Country and Western musicians. It is very well done and I thoroughly enjoyed it... even though I am a city slicker. As a result, my country music radar was working very well on this trip.

John-F thinks they're a bunch of drunken cowboys. Ear of the beholder, I suppose. Then of course, there is the line from a Moe Brandy song, "It took a lot of drinkin' to get that woman over me." Maybe John-F has a point.

The Elk Pointe development marked the place where the climb of Mancos Hill began.

A little further east, I passed a ranching development called Elk Pointe where the climb of Mancos Hill began. It seemed to be in roughy 3 stages of relatively long climbs with grades in the range of 7-9%. There were some stunning views of the surrounding landscapes along the way before the "hill" topped out in the area of 7800 feet above sea level. I had some concern about reaching such heights on the first day, after having come out from "back east" where elevations are not anywhere close to the Colorado mountains. The altitude was scarcely noticed during the climbing. Perhaps that is a tribute to significant hill training on our home turf.

Tremendous view of a mountainside ranch seen while climbing Mancos Hill in Western Colorado.

After topping out on Mancos Hill, a brief and fast descent was enjoyed. Speeds between 35-40 miles per hour (or more), on the bike, could be reached with no effort being expended. I didn't yet know it, but this pattern would repeat many times to come on our 12-day adventure. Some care to keep speeds under control was prudent to avoid any crashes, which would no doubt be disastrous. The low to mid-30's, in miles per hour, is enough for my thrill meter.

US-160, near the intersection with Gold Bar Drive; this is close to the summit of the 2nd hill (Durango West) and the Hesperus Ski Area.

After the nice downhill, the shorter but still significant climb of Durango West began. It too had sustained grades of 7-9% before reaching the summit, which was at approximately 8300 feet above sea level.

We had seen the climb out of Durango, on US-160, but had no idea of what the descent into the city would be like on the alternative roads we had chosen. A short distance down from the summit, we made a right turn onto LaPlata (LP) County Route 140. Within a mile and a half, a left was made onto LP County Route 125, where an immediate and challenging uphill grade greeted us. Once having surmounted it, the long and fun downhill to Durango began.

The pastoral scenery on LaPlata County Route 125 was very nice.

These falling county roads were a thrilling and scenic reward for having toughed out the long climbs on US-160. A cyclist was climbing up from the other direction but seemed to be moving along well as he gave a friendly wave. Stunning views of Lake Nighthorse and the valley below were enjoyed on the way down.

Nice views while descending LaPlata County Route 125. Lake Nighthorse is off in the distance.

County Route 125 gave way to CR-210, which had the same pattern. A brief climb followed by another long downhill. Eventually, CR-210 terminated at busy US-160. Upon crossing at the light, the Las Animas River Trail (LART) lay immediately to the left. It made for a peaceful and traffic-free ride into downtown Durango. We had ridden on it last year and it was nice to see it again on this years' ride.

The Las Animas River Trail, Durango, Colorado

To get to the train station, where we finished last year, we took the LART until reaching the Double Tree Hotel. At the far end of the hotel is a path. We took it (turning right) and then proceeded onto W. College Avenue. The road crosses Camino Del Rio and continues into the heart of town, passing the Durango to Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Station, which lies on the right hand side. Here, we finished up the ride for this day and collected everyone from our group. We loaded up the bikes on our support vehicle and Jack-O shuttled us back to Canyon of the Ancients.

There, we would relax before beginning the remainder of the journey (to the West) tomorrow.

Today's ride: 62 miles (100 km)
Total: 62 miles (100 km)

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