March 16, 2024 to March 20, 2024
Wrapping Up in Paris - For Now
Not with a bang, but a whimper
Yet another cold and rainy weekend in Paris – a good time for resting, catching up, and getting ready for the next chapter – the one where I am actually cycling! I ventured outside only a few times to pick up provisions at the small specialty shops in my neighborhood. And I met Sonia for a drink on Sunday afternoon, sipping on a spritzer and testing out my French proficiency.
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Monday, March 18
The weather had warmed a bit by Monday, with predictions for sunshine the following days. I was very much looking forward to getting out and about in Paris – revisiting old haunts and discovering new corners of the city. The first item was a Rothko exhibit at the Fondation Louis Vuitton, one of my favorite museums in Paris.
Mark Rothko was born in Russia in 1903 and emigrated with his family to Portland, OR at the age of ten. Though he started figurative painting in the 1930s, he is best known for his later abstract paintings from the 1950s - two or three large rectangular colored shapes that are recognizably Rothkos.
The retrospective includes 115 works that are presented in chronological order, from his earliest figurative works to the Black and Gray series commissioned by UNESCO but never installed. Curated narratives throughout the exhibit as well as Rothko’s own words provided insight as to his evolving vision and goals - “I’m not interested in color, it’s light I’m after”
For me, it was an eye-opening exhibition. I’d never thought much about Rothko the artist and though I’d come across one or two of his works in exhibitions with other 20th century artists, I had usually passed them by rather quickly. But here I was compelled to pause before each work, drawn in by the different colors, tones and brushwork. And as is usually the case with successful art expositions, I left there uplifted and a bit in awe at the power of art to move me.
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It was mid-afternoon by the time I exited the museum, with the sun peeking through a generally cloudy sky. Rather than taking the Metro, I decided it would be a fine afternoon to walk the 3.5 miles home. Google plotted a route through Bois de Boulogne, a nearly 2100 acre park on the eastern side of Paris. I’d not previously been in the park and so set off in great anticipation of a new adventure. Along the way I encountered an extensive network of trails as well as a variety of mammalian and avian life forms – it would be a wonderful place to bring Vivien George sometime later this year. However, Google had routed me through a series of paths and dirt roads that snaked through the woods in directions that befuddled me – no real surprise there! It seemed as though I’d been going in circles for ages when I finally emerged from the woods near the Pavillon Royal and the interior lake. In fact, I'd gone less than a mile. I was tired and used the excuse of darkening clouds to abandon my walk and find my way to the Metro. I soon arrived home, tired and content.
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Tuesday, March 19
My goals for the last two days in Paris were fairly simple: 1) finish up last minute errands before my Thursday departure and 2) take long strolls through central Paris. I had a rendezvous with my friend Alex for a 12:30 lunch, so the morning was spent doing a final load of wash and working on the journal. The wash cycle ended and I got up from the couch intending to hang the newly cleaned clothes on the rack. Unbeknownst to me, my left foot had fallen asleep and then crumbled when I stood on it. I struggled to regain my balance, but there was nothing to grab onto to and, as I was wearing socks, I slipped and tumbled to the floor. My left foot rolled as I fell, accompanied by a distinct cracking sound. A zillion thoughts raced through my head - most concerned the potential damage to my foot and what that meant for my upcoming tour through Spain and Portugal.
My foot was able to bear weight (a good sign), so I immediately retrieved an ice pack from the kitchen and retreated to the couch. After an hour, there was some swelling and discoloration, but I could still walk with a modicum of pain. Feeling pretty encouraged, I headed out for lunch with Alex, followed by a trip to the bank. Unfortunately, the pain and bruising had greatly increased by the time lunch was over, so I limped home for more rest and icing. It was clear central Paris would have to wait, and I was just hoping that my Iberian tour was not in jeopardy.
Over lunch, I had asked Alex about where I might get an X-ray and he mentioned Doctolib, the French online medical portal. Once home, I logged onto Doctolib and made an appointment for an X-ray the following morning. Thanks to a large dose of Ibuprofen, I was able to get a good night’s sleep.
Wednesday, Mar 20
The first day of Spring!! Certainly I will get some good news today.
The bruising in my foot had spread overnight, but the swelling and pain had subsided a bit. I was feeling optimistic that nothing was broken and that my tour would proceed as planned. The X-ray clinic was not far from home, and I headed over about 9 am for my 9:25 appointment. The line moved slowly as one of the receptionists was out sick, but I’d reached the counter shortly after 9:30. I’d been pretty pleased with myself for navigating Doctolib to set up the appointment, but I missed the critical information that I needed a doctor’s referral before I could get the X-ray. Lacking the referral, I was given an option of three medical centers where I could get both the referral and X-ray.
I found my way to the MGEN health center and entered a large courtyard surrounded by numbered buildings housing a variety of medical specialties. I wasn’t quite sure where to go, but was directed by a kind onlooker to the building at the far end. There I found a large waiting room filled with patients, each holding a numbered ticket as if they were waiting in a line at the deli. It was clear that I would have a long wait before even knowing if I was in the right place.
By this time, I’d walked more than a mile on a “broken foot” that seemed to be functioning fairly normally. There was soreness, but no limp. I decided to forgo the X-ray and headed home for some more icing and rest. I plan to be ready at 7:45 tomorrow morning for my ride to Orly and the beginning of what promises to be a great month of cycling.
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Enjoy Iberia.
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As we age our balance deteriorates and Mary and I attend a weekly older adults strength and balance class. We perform core strengthening exercises and a lot of balance work.
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