March 26, 2024
To Mertola
There weren’t many options for lodging in Sanlúcar. I had originally planned to cross the river yesterday and stay in Alcoutim; however, I much preferred Sanlúcar as it would remove the stress of catching a ferry after a long day of cycling. So that’s how I ended up being the first guest in an AirBnb in Sanlúcar. The place has potential, but other than the lack of a WiFi code, the most annoying thing was a rattling front door that wasn’t properly sealed. It startled me at first, but once I assured myself I was safe, the noise became a near constant reminder of the howling wind outside. In fact, I lay awake at 4 am listening with great trepidation to a ferocious wind and rain storm whipping outside my door. Somehow, I fell back asleep, and my hoped-for dreams were realized when I woke to blue skies and sunshine.
I knew the good weather wouldn’t last as both high wind and rain were in the forecast. My destination was Mértola, only 23 miles ahead, but I wanted to beat the rain and hopefully get to explore a bit of the town. The first ferry of the day was scheduled for 9:30 and I arrived at the dock at 9:27 – no sign of the ferry anywhere. An English-speaking passerby told me the ferry might have been early, but it is usually late, and if I stood on the green-painted waiting area the pilot might see me and come over. A man with a shopping cart showed up about fifteen minutes later, and we both stomped our feet in the morning chill and looked longingly across the river. Just before ten, the small ferry puttered across the river, and in no time at all Vivien George and I had arrived in Portugal. Where it was only just past 9 am!
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I managed to push Vivien George up from the river’s edge, stopped for a pastry to go, and headed up toward Mértola. The air was crisp, the road was quiet, and the sun and clouds were playing hide and seek. It was glorious – the kind of day that taps into your touring soul. There was wind, mostly a headwind, but I wasn’t going to let it spoil things this early in the day.
After the initial 2.5 mile climb off the river, I rolled along for about another five miles before descending to the Vascão River. The winding descent was a bit harrowing in the stiff wind, but I just claimed the lane and was thankful there was no traffic. I greeted the bridge construction workers, asking how to say “hello” in Portuguese, and then climbed away from the river. The route was bumpy and the wind increased as the day wore on, varying from cross- to headwinds at about 20 mph. I admit to getting worn down, but was constantly buoyed by a landscape carpeted in a rainbow of wildflowers – yellows, purples, whites and reds. It was spectacular. I made the final descent to the Guadiana River and looked up at the Castle of Mértola, dry and happy.
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It was just past 1 pm when I arrived at my hotel – too early for check in but I was able stow Vivien George and my gear in her room for the night, a spare bathroom that doubled as a storage room for kayak paddles and life vests. I ordered a coke and chips and sat on their terrace in the sun, enjoying the flush of a good day’s ride. Within minutes, it started to rain – I hadn’t even finished my coke. Clearly, it was time to find a restaurant and enjoy a hot Portuguese meal.
There were no tables available when I arrived at Tamuje, but was told I could wait until something opened up. Not wanting to return to the cold and rain, I readily agreed and was seated in about ten minutes. I ordered the daily special of vegetable soup and dorade – the soup was a delicious creamy butternut while the grilled dorade came with head and bones. I don’t normally eat whole, boned-in fish and my fileting skills are marginal, but I managed to do a pretty good job of cleaning the bones and not choking. With sides of potatoes, steamed veg and a small salad, it was a full and satisfying meal. After capping it off with an espresso, I ventured up to the castle.
The Mértola Castle was constructed in the 12th and 13th centuries on the site of a Roman forum. Sitting high above the Guadiana River, the fortified castle was considered to be “one of the most impregnable fortresses in the Occidental Iberia.” Just below the castle is Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Anunciação, the Parish Church of Our Lady of the Annunciation. As with the castle, the site was once a Roman temple, and later a mosque. I continued up to the castle, entering into the courtyard where I was greeting by a howling and very chill wind. Deciding conditions were not optimal for further exploration, I headed back down the hill and arrived at my hotel just as the rains began anew. Like most things today, my timing had been perfect.
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Today's ride: 24 miles (39 km)
Total: 147 miles (237 km)
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1 month ago
Glad to see you’re sticking with it. Hopefully you’ll be able to window your rides in breaks in the weather like you did today. It looks beautiful this time of year!
1 month ago