April 21, 2024
To La Puebla de los Infantes
It was another spectacular day, the penultimate day of this tour of Iberia. There were thrilling downhills, carpets of wildflowers and moments of sheer joy as I watched lambs gambol on a hillside. A fitting capstone to this past month.
The day started with a nice chat at breakfast with a couple from the UK, Sara and Gary, who were on a two week tour of the region to do some hiking and sightseeing. The Sierra Morena range, which separates Andalusia and Extremadura comprises an oak forest that seems to be an excellent and popular place for hiking. And for biking, as I experienced today.
The ride began with a fairly steep and snaking three mile drop from Cazalla de la Sierra that ended at the Cazalla-Constatine railroad station, where the road intersects with the Sierra Morena Via Verde. Based on Scott and Rachael’s rave reviews, I’d considered taking the Via Verde into/out of Cazalla but opted instead for shorter mileage on the provincial A-456. I may have missed out on a great Via Verde, but I doubt the greenway could have topped what I experienced over the next stretch of miles into Constantina.
First, there were the lambs. Well, first there were the pigs, who were scared off when a trio of motorcycles went roaring by. Soon after moving on from the retreating pigs, I came across a hillside covered in flowers and a flock of sheep – including scores of young lambs who seemed to be playing a very robust game of tag as they raced back and forth across the field, ears flying and heels kicking in delight. I stood and watched for maybe fifteen or twenty minutes, during which time they never flagged - back and forth, back and forth. I tried vainly to get a video (hopeless) or even a good shot, but they were moving so fast that it was all mostly a blur. Their joy was infectious. The unbridled exuberance of the young at play kept me smiling all day, remembering to savor the simple joys in life.
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Not long after I pulled myself away from the lambs I stopped and dropped my bike – on purpose. Though I’d cycled past an untold number of blooming fields this past month, the array of colors flanking this small gated road were too compelling to pass by. The gate was locked, but a path had been worn through the weeds, one that allowed me to almost wade in amongst the wildflowers. The simple joys of life.
Early on, somewhere between the pigs and the lambs, I’d decided to take it slow and make this day last. I stopped in Constatina for a bite to eat, managing to order just the right-sized sandwich to go with my Fanta. The town was larger than I'd expected and quite charming, complete with a castle, a cathedral, and a cobbled highway that took me through the center of town.
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It was most mostly downhill after Constatina as I gradually lost elevation on the way to La Puebla de los Infantes. Once again, I found myself on a near empty road flanked by small trees and wildflowers – a delight. There were a few rises along the way, the first offering me a glimpse at the Embalse de José Torán, a 716 hectare reservoir on the Guadalbarcar river. The second rise was very short but just bit stiff, taking me down near the water’s edge before the last gentle rise to town.
My lodging, La Posada del Infante, was a small inn run by a family that also owned a nearby restaurant, one that I had carefully passed through before reaching the inn. Antonio came from the restaurant to check me in and show me my room, a warm and charming space filled with touches of home - artwork on the walls and books on the bedside table. I cleaned up and headed over to their restaurant for a delicious meal of Iberian pork medallions, the best I’d eaten in Iberia. It was past four, and most meals were winding down. Adults lingered at their tables while the children played on the nearby plaza, filling the late afternoon air with laughter. It was a wonderful space and time, as was the entire day.
Today's ride: 31 miles (50 km)
Total: 842 miles (1,355 km)
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