May 20, 2023
Scalea to Potenza
Of all the days that we need good weather, today is the day. Well actually, we need good weather for the next three days because we plan to hang a left here and head for the hills of the Pollino National Park, the largest of Italy’s national parks. Its mountains drop to sea level at Scalea and look inviting, but the weather is still not cooperating. When we woke this morning, it was raining. To add insult, it is windy and it's blowing directly from the east where we are headed. I can only imagine the fierce headwinds we might encounter as we ride through the mountains. And, of course, mudslides are also on our minds.
We discussed the situation over our Italian breakfast (🥐+☕️) and decided to scrap two reservations and head north and east on the train to Potenza. We could catch up with our bookings two days from now in Pietrapertosa. David made a booking for us in Potenza to finalize the decision. And just like that, hours and hours of route planning went in the trash. Poof! Finding a suitable route east from Scalea had been a monumental challenge in the months leading up to this trip. First, the obvious route along the arch of the boot was out. It is a major highway where bikes are not allowed. Second, the main highways extend north to south, not west to east. Third, the secondary and tertiary roads that snake over the mountains are notorious for their steep grades and poor surfaces in Italy. And finally, the selection of places to stay is limited. It's quite unlike anything I have encountered in trip planning and is what prompted me to pre-book much of the trip.
Fortunately, Scalea is served by Trenitalia so we tootled off to the statzione and bought tickets for the train to Potenza. We would travel up the coast to Battapagli, just a stone’s throw from Naples, and switch trains there for the leg to Potenza. The train didn’t depart until 12:40 and would arrive at 4:45, so we headed off for breakfast #2 at a nearby pasticceria. It had stopped raining and I was about to take a seat when I noticed that all the outdoor tables and chairs were covered in a layer of fine dirt. So were the nearby plants and all the cars and motorcycles. It appeared it had been deposited by the rain and it covered absolutely everything, my panniers included.
My first thought was a small volcanic eruption nearby and then it dawned on me that they sometimes have sand storms here from Africa, which is not so far away. I googled it, and indeed, this is a thing in southern Italy. A young lady from the restaurant kindly came with a bucket of soapy water and a rag and cleaned up the furniture so we could sit outside. I am so glad I noticed it before sitting down! After cappuccinos, we went in search of lunch for the train trip.
Macellarias are always a good source for paninis and there was one right across the street so we headed there next. Entering through the beaded curtain, we were greeted by the jovial butcher. We both chose mortadella from the case and he then proceeded to slice and slice and slice some more. I think he wanted to fatten us up! He motioned to the mountains and said something like... ‘you two are going to need it when you get into the mountains. As for me, I will take a siesta.’ We made his day when we asked for some cheese as well! A quick trip to the frutta e verdura shop for fresh fruit and we were all stocked for the journey.
| Heart | 5 | Comment | 1 | Link |
11 months ago
The red onions pictured here are the spring edition of the famous Tropea onions which grow in the south coast of Calabria. There’s a consensus among food historians that the onions probably arrived on the Italian peninsula via the Phoenicians and Greeks. Though they grow all over the region, the sandy soil and more moderate climate near the coast produces the sweetest onions of the bunch. A good Tropea onion is far sweeter than your average red onion and lacks the chemicals that make your eyes burn. They are used in all sorts of dishes from salads to marmalade to ice-cream. I can’t wait to try them.According to the locals, the sign of a good Cipolla Rossa di Tropea is that you can eat it like an apple!
| Heart | 3 | Comment | 1 | Link |
So sorry to hear that you are getting so much rain. Hope things improve for the rest of your trip.
11 months ago
The trains have been surprisingly reliable and efficient, which is contrary to the Trenitalia reputation. Interestingly, we have seen notices and heard announcements telling customers how to lodge a complaint. Maybe they are listening and things are changing. Two thumbs up from us, Trenitalia.
We located the car for the bikes and hopped on board the train. Actually, we (I) heaved and grunted my bike up the three narrow steps to the train.
We enjoyed seeing the scenery along the coastal route and even spotted the tunnel where the huge boulder had fallen. At Battapagli, we transferred to the next train.
The route wound through verdant green valleys and along rushing rivers swollen from the recent rains. The scenery is beautiful here and is quite unexpected. I am looking forward to seeing more of Basilicata. The mountainsides were draped in green meadows and dotted with small dwellings and villages. If only the sun was shining!
At Potenza Centrale, we got off the train and navigated through the spaghetti-like roads to the B&B, a 120m climb.
As we were making a final check on the location, a gentleman approached us to ask if we were looking for the Leucos B&B. Indeed we were. It was the owner.
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He led us to his B&B and suggested we could leave the bikes in the yard around the back of the building. That would be a showstopper so we asked about storing them inside and he obliged. It’s a beautiful place.
Potenza is the capital of Basilicata. Its geography and size surprised us. The old city was built at the top of an 850m peak and from there it spills down the flanks and into the surrounding valleys. The main roads are best described as serpentine. Sets of stairs and smaller roads and alleys connect all the serpentine roads. As an additional aid to the citizenry, Potenza has several elevators and escalators to get about on foot. They the longest escalators in Europe and the second longest in the world. Our B&B is situated right across from them.
Our host recommended a restaurant for us which opened at 7:30pm. It’s a popular spot but we lucked out and got a table when we showed up at 7:20. They did not disappoint!
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Today's ride: 5 km (3 miles)
Total: 215 km (134 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 12 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 5 |
11 months ago
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11 months ago
So glad the trains are an option to get you around the detours. Fingers crossed for sunny days and no landslides.
11 months ago