Oh boy, it was so cold last night that we both had hot baths, put on layers starting with merino, cranked up the heat pump to full blast and stayed under the covers. The insulation was so thin in this room that until we got the room warmed up, it felt like we were in a tent. What am I saying…it never really got warm in our room, we just piled on the blankets and wore layers.
Glad to open the screens and see a bright day. We know that our ride will begin this morning with a 16 km grind of continuous uphill. Up early to get a good start. Yesterday the traffic was heavy and as much as we could, we used the sidewalk if it was rideable.
Rice delivery at the Inn. We imagine they will go through it pretty quickly. Last night when we arrived, we saw some locals taking advantage of their all you can eat meat dinner. Each table has a grill and you get platters of raw meat to cook as you like.
The photo makes this place look better than it is. We would be hard pressed to recommend it, but if like us, it is your only option, take it.
Ready to roll. We know that we will have a continuous climb for about 16 km. We hope that the traffic is light and that there are fewer freight trucks than yesterday. Unfortunately the sidewalk is not maintained well and we are often forced to take to the road.
Susan JamesYour photos do make the hotel look nice but then again I've stayed in far worse hotels and hostels in my travels so I think it's a matter of perspective. Reply to this comment 5 months ago
Barry BartlettYou’re right Susan, it does look great in the photos. However, it is hard to catch the decay, lack of cleanliness and broken down parts. We were honestly just glad to be inside. Plus we like to find something positive, and the people were friendly. So that will be our memory. The bad is gone. Reply to this comment 4 months ago
Barry loves this strange concoction…it tastes like an ice cream float. Japanese food scientists deserve kudos for their ingenuity and skill at replicating flavours and textures in their creations.
When researching this route, we saw the jumble of serpentine turns…and we are finally at that point. We were relieved that there was no more uphill at this point.
It was a rough start to the day with such a sustained climb without relief. However, it is now pay back time with a steep, serpentine downhill for at least 9 km. The signs warned us of very sharp curves and they weren’t kidding. It was fun but a bit hairy as the curves were very tight leaving little room for error.
There are so many stories about the tragedies suffered from the many volcanic eruptions over time of Mt. Aso and other volcanic mountains in this Range. The most recent eruptions happened in 2016 and 2021 with much devastation. We can’t imagine living with this threat as it could happen at any time.
One Piece is a series of Manga Books (and a successful series on Netflix). The author is from this area and as an homage to these books, there are statues throughout the area of figures from this series. We loved watching the series and as you can see, Barry is an avid fan.
The Manga Books in Japan are a big hit. Kids and adults alike love it. We enjoyed watching little kids like these guys express their excitement. They really nailed their poses.
We liked that Monkey D Luffy, the beloved main character of One Piece, is wearing a T-shirt of the town of Kumamoto. This city is the area where the author of the Series is from.
We reached the Michi which is devoted to Mt. Aso tourism and information about the area. The train station and bus shuttles are located here as well, which are important for travellers to coordinate their visit. It seems like we need a lot of time here to visit Mt Aso. We have learned that after 4pm it gets very cold and is getting dark, so if we visit Aso today, we will be rushed and riding to our hotel in the dark. We’ll come back tomorrow by bus and take our time in this incredible place.
This sign of Asa Cycling Association intrigues us…first we’ve heard of it. We did notice that there are change rooms and showers for cyclists who ride up to Mt. Aso. We considered it but were advised that it is at least 1 1/2 hours each way and the road is narrow with many buses to contend with. We’ll take the shuttle bus.
We have booked accomodation in the next town, Ozu about 28 km away. Places to stay in Aso are very expensive and are booked well ahead. There are a few guesthouses but they have been fully booked for some time. little did we know, that it was especially busy as there was a holiday this week and families often take extra days to stretch out their break. This element further put a strain on the availability and cost of places to stay here.
After making our decision to come back tomorrow we headed out. As before, the sidewalk is not maintained and it can be like riding through a field with so much growing in the cracks and covering the sidewalks that it is impossible to ride. Plus we figure that a flat tire or other damage to our trikes is inevitable. We gave up here as the sidewalk suddenly disappeared and we both got whacked by this unfriendly branch. Ouch.
We are making progress but I discovered as I was about to enter the road that bikes are not allowed. Two young boys were there and they were very concerned for our safety. In Japan, if something is not allowed, the person will cross their arms in front of their chest. With great vehemence, the young boy communicated with me by using the arms crossed gesture that I should take the old road. Many “arigato”s (thank you) and deep bows ensued.Thank you boys for looking out for us.
We are getting a close up view of the back side of some of the volcanic mountains. Due to the volcanic activity, no trees grow on these mountains…just grasslands. This is odd to see as Japan’s hills and mountains are typically lush and verdant.
Once again, we were happy to see a sign that warned of another lengthy steep downhill section for several km. This was so much fun at this point in the day. We stopped to take some photos of the landscape and when we turned around we were surprised to see the complete staff of this restaurant standing with their faces close to the window watching us. We all laughed, waved …and as it goes many bows ensued.
Before Ozu we came upon this sobering memorial of the effects of the 2016 volcanic eruption. A man was killed driving his car on the bridge across a ravine. The remains of the bridge have been left in place as a reminder of this incident. The bridge was a lifeline for village and the new bridge was replaced very quickly.
The new the new bridge was constructed by computer robots and without human involvement. This cement bridge is hopefully able to withstand the force of volcanic activity.
Susan JamesYeah, I'm not sure. It's probably strong enough but still the thought of being caught during an earthquake would scare me. Reply to this comment 5 months ago
We have checked into Hotel Candeo in Ozu and we like our view of farmland and the mountains in the distance. We wondered what joy rider had fun in this field.
Tried a new restaurant for dinner. It is called Ringer Hut and their focus is on noodles, lots of veggies and healthy food. Sounds good. Mary Ellen had a ton of veggies stir fried on a nest of crispy noodles with a side of gyoza. Tasty.
Barry had a soup with hard boiled eggs and lots of veggies. Unlike ramen where noddles are added to the broth, these noodles are cooked in sauce which makes them very flavourful. They are called champon noodles.
We have had such a full and incredible day of riding and exploring this area of Kyushu. Mt Aso is Japan’s largest and most active area of volcanic activity. It is sobering to see the devastating effects of this force of nature, and more so, that this a real threat for the people that live in this area.
Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles) Total: 1,196 km (743 miles)
5 months ago