Heading north along the coast - Six Wheels Through Japan Part 2 - CycleBlaze

December 18, 2023

Heading north along the coast

We  are heading out this morning for somewhere north of here…we’ll see how the day goes before we book something. We had hoped to camp, but the forecast is for heavy rain, all day.  Once we decide on our destination, we will stay put for two nights and sit out the rain in comfort.

We have been very comfortable here…everything we need in a small space, but surprisingly not claustrophobic. We like that the huge tv gives us access to streaming channels that we use at home like Netflix and Prime. The tv is a nice change from watching programs on my ipad. There is a separate bedroom at the back and a bed in this area as well.
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We liked the small but functional bathroom. Toilet in a separate room with the sink and shower in the same room.
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The trikes are ready to roll.
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One last look before we head out. Glory Island has been a good spot for us to relax and recharge.
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We had no idea that this campground was just beyond where we stayed the past 2 nights. We headed down to check it out.
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What an incredible spot…just a few tenters including this fellow who is heading out for a paddle.
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The campground is located on a lovely quiet beach with thoughtful touches for campers like this shelter with a washing station. There are flush toilets, hot showers (200¥ for 3 min), spacious campsites on grass and lots of area to sit and relax.
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We stayed the last 2 nights around the point of land atop the cliff. We enjoyed it. Had we not stayed there, we would have also loved the experience of camping here…laid back and quiet, beautiful location and all the necessities you need. The only thing…bring food with you.
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The gazebo on the breakwater is a nice touch. Lots of fishing boats and larger vessels on the water today.
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Colourful houses built up the side of the cliff maximizing the view.
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Banana trees…we love the (sub) tropics, the fresh fruit..flowers and lush growth.
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There are very nice homes in this area. The elements are hard on buildings here which means a lot of upkeep. While we stayed at Glory Island, a crew of painters refreshed some of the units..we think they must be on retainer to fight the effects of the sea air, winds, etc.
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Bougainvillea at its peak.
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Climbing on this beautiful day and admiring the view.
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We liked their bold choice…striking orange and soft pink. It helps being in the tropics, it works here.
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Not sure what these are for..storage? Couldn’t find an answer online..
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Didn’t take the time to stop, but this home based textile business was tempting. It was a learning curve early in our cycle travelling days to accept and understand, that being on a bike means you can’t do it all. Just being on the bike and enjoying the world from a self sufficient, slow moving vantage point is a big part of what we love. As the expression goes, the rest is gravy!.
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Feeling a bit like a bird with this wonderful vantage point we have today.
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Or perhaps, we feel like a hang glider does from up high.
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The fellows who control traffic in construction zones are incredible. They really look after us and keep us safe. With this fellow on site, no cars are allowed thru until we are safely beyond the zone.
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Time for a break and sit by the water. Plus, we need to book something for tonight and the next day. It is hard to believe, but tomorrow it will be windy and rain hard all day and overnight. It doesn’t sound rideable, or at least it sounds like we would be miserable. We have learned to trust the Japanese weather forecasts as they are typically accurate.
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Barry has decided that he needs more exercise and wandered up this staircase to see what was at the top…a good view was his reward.
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Yeah! Kind of like a Rocky moment, I think.
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Up to this point, we have had an extraordinary day of riding today. We have followed the ocean with incredible views and the traffic has been fairly light. Bliss.  And then it all changed. We had to fight for space on a suddenly narrowed road with heavy traffic, big trucks. We were stuck with where we were and had to keep moving. 

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Nakagusuku is a sign for a ruins to visit at the top.
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For a while (short while that is), we were able to ride on a sidewalk but then it abruptly ended. No driveway or curved access point, so we reluctantly went back on the road, after taking everything off our trikes and lifting them down to the road. Not good.
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The clouds are rolling in and we have been climbing, leaving the city behind. Unfortunately the traffic has not decreased.
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Yeah, a Lawson’s Convenience Store…bathroom stop and coffee, in that order.
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We understand urban sprawl, but what we don’t understand is why the infrastructure disappeared with it. Narrow dangerous roads are our nemesis and we try to avoid them.
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We stopped for a breather and looked back. What a surprise. We passed this incredible shrine and didn’t realize what the sign at the road meant. It looks impressive.
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Now this was weird…we suddenly realized that the road we riding on was cutting through an immense, luxury golf course with killer views.
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We think that, despite the traffic problems we have had, we are happier up here than down there.
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Yes, the Golf Club looks pretty luxe.
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More of the golf course…it is immense.
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Liked these construction barriers with the Okinawa Shisas to keep us safe.
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Nature has reclaimed this building.
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Mutt and Jeff? David and Goliath? A study in contrasts for sure, but this driver was kind and professional in sharing the road.
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We had to descend where there was gridlock…cars backed up for a long way. There was a sidewalk again, so we tried it. All was great, until cement poles had been added (for electrical wiring) which made the width impassable. Once again, we unloaded our gear and lifted our trikes over the guard rails to rejoin the traffic.  Oh dear.

We decided to stay at the EM Wellness Spa Hotel in Kitanakagusuku. We are excited that they are known for their Onsens with natural springs, massages etc.  Our plan is to visit the onsen morning and night…our knees and backs will thank us. 
This grand old hotel was originally a Sheraton from the early seventies, but has been taken over by the Japanese group, EM Wellness Co. There are more modern and fancier hotels around here that offer Onsens, but   Japanese people come here because of its  association with this company EM Wellness. The hotel delivers on the expectation that all services…cleaning products, food served, water for drinking, the spa….live up to the EM standard. Food is organic, locally sourced. It provides a unique experience. 
The hotel  is set on high with a lovely view and offers huge, comfortable,  understated guest rooms.  And as we have discovered, Okinawa is the best bargain around for reasonably priced accomodation. It helps that this is the off season but we find the price for rooms so low…and breakfast is included. Tell you about that tomorrow.

We have reached our destination! So sweaty and tired but glad to be here. As we parked our trikes, this gentleman greeted us. He is 87 years young and he comes to this hotel everyday for the buffet breakfast.
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Today's ride: 42 km (26 miles)
Total: 1,884 km (1,170 miles)

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