Another day of superb riding on the Amakusa Islands
On this trip we seem to be drawn to older hotels which have had a grand history from another era and now, like us, is beginning to show its age. Everything is oversized..the lobby, guest room, onsen and the hospitality.
The tiny village, Shimoda Onsen is a gem which is located at the base of magnificent hills. Like Beppu, Onsens are everywhere..in homes, hotels, public premises…riding down the main drag, you would lose count of how many there are. The standout for us was the footbath. It is beautiful and by far the most therapeutic experience we have had. Earlier in this trip, I had a fall which injured my left foot…footbaths are heavenly for me. Initially, the pain is very targeted and as I rest there, the pain subsides.
We never know how a hotel will react to our trikes and a request for a safe place to store them. We have learned to adapt to Japanese space restrictions and a different philosophy. The more we travel in Japan, the more flexible we have become as we recognize that Japan is a very safe place with a low threat of theft or vandalism. Nonetheless, worst case scenario, we will lock them to each other and to a part of a building with oversized backpack covers covering them. This hotel surprised us when they told us to park them in their lovely lobby.
Our trikes attracted attention due to being parked in a prominent spot and somehow, other guests knew that we were the crazy foreign cyclists. This couple had talked to us a few times about our travels, with each couple using a different language with limited comprehension. We did have some good laughs with them.
The staff at the hotel were wonderful and embodied old world charm and hospitality. The fellow worried that we were not including breakfast in our room…as we departed he gave us packs of yummy nuts to help us on our way.
Independent, self supported travel is full of surprises…often not knowing where we may end up nor where we will be staying. This hotel was in the right place at the right time and we loved it.
Construction was along our route building a retaining wall along the cliff. In true Japanese fashion, the traditional and the modern worked together... sophisticated modern machinery and the traditional hand made broom as shown below.
Come to think of it, we see more brooms like this than commercially made brooms made of synthetic materials.
We came around a bend in the road and there was a detour heading inland. They were modernizing a long tunnel. The detour included a long climb and then a winding descent. Traffic was being diverted through tunnels that predated the tunnel that they were modernizing.
It happens so frequently where a person will go into a convenience store and come out with food, energy bars, a beverage etc. At first we were so surprised by this, but we have learned to accept this gift graciously as it comes with sincere good wishes and a welcoming spirit.
As much as we sometimes think that we should branch out a bit from Convenience Stores, they are a great resource for us while on the road. Reasonably priced, good coffee, snacks and food which they will heat up for us, bathrooms and freshly made food. This store is known for its baking. Yum.
Christianity was introduced in the 16th century by Portuguese missionaries to the Nagasaki region. In 1637 there was a riot and the Edo Shuginate banned Christianity. Followers of Christianity, who became known as the hidden Christians, continued to practice their faith in secrecy while pretending to practice traditional Buddhism. Further to this, they had Buddhist Shrines in their community which had secret hidden areas containing Christian items for worship. Even when the ban was lifted, many, out of fear, continued to hide their Christianity.A major centre of the “hidden Christians” was the village of Satisku where we are visiting today. Satisku has been awarded World Cultural Heritage status. The first church was built in Satisku in 1888.
Martin Scorsese directed a film called Silence which depicted the story of the hidden Christians in this area. The film was based on the novel of the same name by Shusaku Endo. Scorcese’s passion project of the film Silence was in development for over 25 years.
The first church in Sakitsu was built in 1888, the year that the 250 year old ban on Christianity was lifted. The church seen above was built in the gothic style in 1934 by Father Halbout from France.
This installation alongside the roadof a police cruiser with flashing lights looks real from a distance. We are thinking that it must be a good deterrent for speeders.
Steve Miller/GrampiesIt's a joint project of the Ushibuka Lions Club and Ushibuka police. Do you think the solar power lights the cruiser? Reply to this comment 5 months ago
We are happy with our ride today. We have reached Ushibuka, the last village of Shimoshima Island before taking the ferry to Nagashima. It is bittersweet as we have loved exploring Amakusa, but we must carry on. There are just a few places to stay here..a business hotel that looked ghastly and this lovely Minshuku where we will stay the night. It is run by a young woman, her little girl who excels at cartwheels and her mother. She has the right idea with a beautiful espresso machine which we can use when we like, an onsen Barry and I can share on our own, great food and comfy rooms.
