Day 26: Telchac Puerto to Izamal

January 7, 2024

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Telchac Puerto was one of those fairly rare towns in Yucatan that seem too poor to even have much or any fruits or vegetables for sale. But our place was ok, though we needed to overlook glitches like almost no water at all from the tap, no towels (until we swiped some), and a super old air conditioner that was unusable because it was as loud as a diesel truck in the room. However the owner was a sweet man, notable for playing classical music in his rooms - a style otherwise unheard by us in Mexico.

Telchac Puerto did muster a unique sign for the entrance to town.

We spent some time last night looking for the best route to Izamal. Google in general wanted to spin us around on micro sized indirect roads. But we now are sure that in Western Yucatan almost any road that is not the 180 toll highway, is fine. In the photo below, we are starting out on what is really the main road out of town. The lack of traffic is not a trick shot, it was mostly like that.

Also in the photo you can see a relatively gentle version of the "topes" or speed bumps that infest the roads here, and especially the approaches to towns. The ones in the photo are small, and totally ignored by cars, while irritating us cyclists. But there are also big fat yellow ones that are a genuine bike hazard. And if you hit a typically unmarked and randomly placed tall speed hump, hang on to those handlebars!

Our road is mostly like this. Why would they put the annoying speed bumps really all the way to the edge, so a bike can not avoid them?

There is water to be seen through these trunks. We are sadly leaving the mangrove forest, not to return on this trip.

We encountered quite a few large hennequen plantings. It can only mean that natural fibre production is continuing at some reduced scale here.

Groove Billed Ani - they look so weird anyway, but what is this one up to?

We have been taking photos of lots of birds, but also thinking why not go crazy on flowers, or trees, or buildings or landscapes? Each of these topics has its place, and gets more or less stress depending on the country. Still, here are some great flowers, and at least one tree is coming up!

The flowered wall was in Telchac Pueblo. Overall the town is much neater and more pleasant than the Puerto.

Yucatan Jays - juvenile - they are so adorable!

This is the Dragon Fruit or pitaya. It's a cactus that makes a dramatic red fruit with white speckled interior. It i actually indigenous to this region. We could see no fruit here or in the market, so it must be really out of season. The plant needs something to climb on, and here are given some sort of cut off tree trunk.

Lots of trees here produce large pods. This one looks like carob to us, but the leaves are wrong. It is dramatic and we see it alot, but wonder what it is.

Just as we were entering Motul, Dodie was musing that perhaps we should avoid the prepared fruits, given how sick I got with them the other night. That seemed like a good idea, until we came to the first fruit store.

Motul itself looked like a nice and tidy town. We would soon find lots more to like there.

Especially in Europe, I observe the design of church steeples, wondering which might be most effective in conducting prayers to heaven. I am assuming that this is the reason for steeples at all, although theologians or church designers might have a different answer. I do think my thinking has some merit, though, because it aligns with churches being built with lofty arches or domes. The idea is that heaven and God are in the general direction of up. Anyway, I thought that here in Motul, a church with not only two steeples but also a microwave tower was pretty advanced.

Motul square has a manger scene. (Sorry for the weird photo size - it seems to be Cycleblaze glitch)

But it also has these dogs in the manger.

And an elephant too. Many Christmas displays here have elephants.

At Motul square lots of people were sitting and enjoying the ambiance - like us. But we were touched when a man walked over and asked us some of the usual questions. More than that, he then offered us both hugs, and wished us "vaya con dios". This was not a religious thing, he was just a sweet and welcoming man. His approach was what we have found from literally every single person we have encountered in 1000 kms here.

This poster at City Hall must have been put up on the occasion of a visit from Mexican president Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, known as AMLO. AMLO follows a quite progressive policy, but is not quite a socialist. Still the poster links him and Felipe Carrillo Puerto, who was born in this town and who governed Yucatan from 1922 to1924, working to reconcile the Maya and the Spanish, after the Caste Wars. He was captured and put to the firing squad by a rebel army, along with three of his brothers. That was in 1924, making this the 100th anniversary.

We discovered the market in Motul, and found it really nice. There was again lots of fruit, including our favorite trays of fruit salad.

The chicken or pork that is hand shredded for tacos.

This is what you presumably roast up for the cochinita pibil.

The butcher shops are quite extensive, but of course so different from back home.

Outside the market we see the parking lot, stressing motos.

But also cargo bikes and other bikes.

This is the building where Felipe Carilo Puerto was born, in 1874. was assassinated at age 49.

On leaving Motul, we are in cattle country, with ranchos lining the road on both sides.

Here are some interesting hennequen, which show the effect of much harvesting.

In Cacalchen we noticed specially something that is all around this tropical region - juice or pastel coloured houses. We think it goes well with the plants and the warm temperatures.

Cacalchen is a small town, with a small church. But the central area had something special going on, not only with circus tent type amusements, but also with preparations for a large rodeo. The main road to Izamal was almost completely blocked with trucks unloading heavy electrical cables, and with a large rodeo ring, right in the middle of the road and everything.

Not sure what the mototaxis are waiting for.

Now we had a straight shot to Izamal. We could see we were drawing close when we came to a sign for the Izamal station of the Mayan Train. The train project has been highly controversial, because it involves pushing track through the jungle. We are not such which parts might or might not be currently in operation.