December 26, 2023
Day 14: Valladolid - Day 3
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Boxing Day, and the people are back at it in the streets. The people, that is, except Dodie, who got attacked by Montezuma's Revenge in the night, and had to stay up with the runs. She is stabilized now, but our plan to cycle north to Ek Balam and back had to be scrubbed. While Dodie rested, I launched a series of errands, giving me a chance to find my way or get lost, without my trusty guide.
My first thing was to find chain lube, something we don't generally try to carry onto the plane. We had noted two sort of bike shops nearby (most, in the tourist area are just rentals) and I walked out to have a look for them. I found one, but it was closed, so I came back and plotted a more serious assault. Google found me "Taller Bici - Todo", which means loosely "Bike Workshop - for Everything". That sounded just right. Since I have no mount on my bar for the GPS, I tried something that I have long thought would help even Dodie, especially in a city. I put one wireless ear bud in and had the phone guide me, while keeping the other ear for listening for oncoming cars, police whistles, and such. This worked great. But I was a little surprised when the thing announced I had arrived at Bici Todo. It turned out to be sort of somebody's living room, and there the man was busy working not on bici but on replacing the muffler of a moto. I had the words for bicycle chain, and oil, lined up and I tried them out. The best the man could offer was one liter of engine oil.
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I went back to Google, and the GPS took me to yet another "bike shop", where the appearance and the story were the same, down to the mechanic there also working on a moto. I was coming to realize firstly that this was a moto and not a bike culture, and that secondly with the climate so dry, chain lubrication was not a big topic. So in a classic "when in Rome" move, I went to a moto supply.
That where I was given a can of chain spray lube, claimed to be "for all vehicles". Dodie freaked a bit when I brought it back, because it also said "super adhesivo". But I am choosing to translate that as "all weather".
My next expedition was to find some take out food, which means going to the food fair. The first stop is for a liter of fresh orange juice. As you see, it could not be fresher:
Next stop, the Chinese place - the only one we know of in Yucatan, but maybe there are lots in Merida? Beef with very fresh broccoli, and fried bananas, so yummy.
The Chinese food always makes me feel like dessert, so I soon set off again, to hunt down a bakery. Of course there are different levels and styles, mostly dry and uninteresting. But there are some bakeries with European pretentions, and Google must have seen me coming. I got sent to one of the fancy ones, coming away with two decent pieces, but for 120 pesos, or almost $5 each.
Dodie is rapidly gaining strength, and she is looking forward to the moment when it's not necessary to send me out on my own. She thinks that way we'll have just sensible cookies and less fresh juice, to stay within budget. But I know the two of us together are not much more sensible than each apart. Grampies just wanna have fun!
The stop in Valladolid (which ends today) was good not only to recharge or recover physically but also to clean and lube the bikes. I took the lube spray I had found in the morning, some buckets, sponges and brushes left around the garden by cleaning staff, and a roll of paper towels from OXXO, to a spigot in the garden, and cleaned the bikes as well as possible. Not only does a clean bike, as we all know, go faster, but it will get a better welcome when dragged into the next hotel room.
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UPDATE:
Dodie was now well enough to go back in the square, so we headed out, mainly looking for a cone of coconut ice cream. As usual our way had to be by the cathedral, but before we got there down the street came a parade with sirens going, a truck with flashing coloured lights, and an entourage of bikes and motos. We have no idea what this was about, but we have seen its like often in Yucatan.
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As we passed by the cathedral, Dodie spotted a young lady in a flashy dress, and we approached to see what this one was about. It seemed like it could be part of a wedding, because there was a young man as well.
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At the front of the church, live musicians and a singer could be heard. The earnest but untrained voice was reminiscent of the pilgrim mass at Santiago de Compostella:
A bell ringer then pulled a rope in the middle of the aisle, and the couple and others walked to the front. The priest launched into a long flood of words, and the musicians did their thing. I tried to video it, but it was too long and also hard to get a good angle without unfairly intruding. Still, rather than being voyeurs, we would have enjoyed sharing in whatever they were experiencing. We were not that devoted, though, because once again we quietly exited by a side door.
There was more fun happening in the square. Traditional dancing was continuing, with slightly varying forms. For example, some performers had trays of water glasses on their heads. Here is one duo:
Tomorrow early we will reluctantly blow this town. The rest of Yucatan awaits!
Today's ride: 7 km (4 miles)
Total: 447 km (278 miles)
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