To Bodie Island

May 2, 2024

Besides hot showers, a place to hang a clothesline is one of the things we miss in the national park campgrounds. Most places have at least a couple poles for a line. We hang a few small things in the trees until the ranger admonishes us not to harm "the nature." Jeez, if these plants can stand up to a hurricane you'd think they could handle a bike jersey.

Takes longer, but we'll just spread things out in the patches of sun to get this stuff dried out.

The trek over the boardwalk and the dunes is too far for a quick morning beach visit. Besides, we have a real ride today - 50 miles to Bodie, the next island on the Outer Banks. First I want to see the lighthouse near the village of Buxton.

We find Hatteras Lighthouse surrounded by scaffolding for an 18 month restoration project. This historic landmark is the tallest brick lighthouse in the U.S. at 198.5 feet. Since its construction in 1870 it has warned ships away from this area known as the "Graveyard of the Altantic."

Over time, erosion moved the shoreline closer, threatening the foundation of the lighthouse. In 1999 the lighthouse was moved 2,900 feet further inland from its original position. A complex process involving hydraulic lift jacks, a temporary foundation, steel beams with tracks and push jacks moved the 4,830 ton structure along the tracks to its new position in 1999.

From the ocean, the spiral candy stripes on Hatteras light were easy to distinguish from the all-white Ocracoke light and the straight horizontal rings on Bodie light.

In Avon we stop for lunch and I get my first taste of fried oysters. I don't love them, possibly because oysters are out of season now. I'll have to give it another try sometime when fresh oysters are back. We pick up some picnic supplies for dinner and move along down the road.

Traffic has picked up today as we get further north. I sure enjoyed the quiet roads of the last few days. We've been very lucky to have nice weather since riding through Emerald Isle five days ago. The wind continues to blow from the south, pushing us down the narrow road north.

Pedaling through Rodanthe, the easternmost point in North Carolina

Sand blows over the road near Pea Island

At the end of Hatteras Island we ride the 3 mile Marc Basington Bridge over Oregon Inlet to Bodie Island. Built in 2019, the bridge has a great wide shoulder and is designed to accommodate shifts in the navigation channel through the inlet.

Glad my shifter is still working. It sure makes it easier to get over the bridges.

Oregon Inlet, between Hatteras and Bodie Island

Fishing boats at the Oregon Inlet dock. Late spring is high season for fishing here. We've seen people fishing all over the Outer Banks on beaches, piers and bridges.

Unlike the last two campgrounds that were set a ways back from the road, Oregon Inlet campground is right on NC12 where traffic noise is constant. Three military helicopters fly overhead, adding to the din. On the plus side, we're very close to the beach and there are hot showers, after a fashion. Once we're cleaned up we take our picnic out to the empty beach. I'll miss these chill late afternoon sessions when we move on from the Outer Banks tomorrow.

In the outdoor showers, the water flows when you pull the ring and stops as soon as you let go.

Weird to walk in all the tire tracks on the beach. Happily, all the fishing folk in their pickups have left for the day.

The birds are the show here, more than we've seen anywhere on this trip.

Gorgonzola, chevre, grapes and wine. I like this picnic groove we have going.

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Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km)
Total: 1,568 miles (2,523 km)

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