To Ferrara

October 24, 2020

So, up the Po. We have a longer ride today, so we’ve been fretting about the weather forecast for a few days in anticipation. As recently as yesterday morning it still looked as if showers would arrive by early afternoon. Neither of us likes the idea of riding a long ways on a wet, chilly day; but if we get an early start and bike steadily, maybe we can roll in dry by early afternoon.

The other threat though is the fog. If conditions are anything like the last few days, we won’t want to be on the road until we can see more than a few yards ahead of ourselves; and if that doesn’t happen until midday, we have problems with both time and weather.

Last night we considered all this and lined up alternatives in case the weather is unfavorable in the morning. The main one is to bike to Adria, only 22 miles away, where there’s the nearest train station. If it’s cold and wet enough, neither of us minds the thought of hopping the train the rest of the way.

Today though, conditions are improved. It looks like showers could hold off until mid-afternoon, and it’s overcast but not foggy. It’s already clear enough to ride, so we rush through the meager breakfast at our hotel and bike away at 9.

The conditions at 9 as we leave Porto Tolle: overcast, but reasonably warm and not too foggy. Better than we’d been hoping for. The ride begins by backtracking yesterday’s ride for a few miles and crossing the Po so we can follow it along the quieter left (north) bank.

Once across the bridge to the far side of the Po, we reach a decision point. There is a three flight set of stairs from the bridge to the bike path below. We can carry our bikes down these stairs, or we can add two miles by staying on the road until it reaches ground level a mile to the north and then doubling back to this point.

A tough choice: add two miles to our already long ride, or carry our loaded bikes down three flights of stairs. Yesterday when we were here we biked the extra two miles one way, and then carried the bikes up the stairs when we returned. That experience wasn’t bad, so we opt for the stairs this morning. We carry the bikes down one at a time, me walking backwards and holding the front wheel, and Rachael bending over forward and holding up the heavier rear - her choice, I must add, since I first offered to lift the heavy end myself but she didn’t like the idea of walking downstairs in front of the bike.

In retrospect, this was probably the wrong decision. We saved a small bit of time and distance, but at the end of the day Rachael’s back is stiff and aching.

Westbound, looking south across the Po. At the moment it looks like the sun might even break through before long, but it never does. This is the brightest that conditions will look all day.

There’s not much else to say about the ride, which has a pretty uniform character for the next fifty miles. A few photographs and a few adjectives will survive. Long. Flat. Quiet. Grey. Dampish. That’s about it. Not the most exciting, but it’s good enough. A dry, generally smooth paved route that’s more bike path than road most of the way is fine with us.

This was interesting. This is a narrow section of perhaps the largest solar farm I’ve ever seen. It was well over a half mile long.

We passed through about a half-dozen villages like this, the steeples of their churches gradually appearing out of the fog ahead.

An unusual bit of color brightens up an otherwise relentlessly grey day.

The most unpleasant part of the ride by far was recrossing the Po just north of Ferrara. It’s safe enough with this pedestrian walkway along the side, but narrow enough that it’s hard on the nerves.

This looks wider than it feels. Hazardous on both sides: the railing is too low for comfort on the left, and the yawning gaps in the pavement at the base of the girders look menacing too.

We arrive in Ferrara just after two. Right on schedule, and it’s still not raining. It’s too early to check in, so we plant ourselves in a cafe for the next 45 minutes before heading off to our apartment to meet our host.

Our apartment is great, but our host is totally amazing. A Dutch woman who’s lived here for the last 20 years, she’s remarkably well prepared and thorough. She spends about fifteen minutes giving us a complete walkthrough of the place - how to use the espresso machine, the washer and dryer, the range, the heater, the TV, the shutters: and then she pulls out a customized raft of tourist information in English to help us make the most of our visit.

The weather looks unsettled for the next few days and Ferrara looks like a wonderful place to linger, so we’ve decided to hang out awhile. We’ll be here for the next four nights - long enough to have a good look at the town, maybe get some day rides in, check out the many tempting restaurants we have to choose from, and just chill out for a bit.

Outside our apartment, waiting for our host to arrive. She’s well worth the wait.

Tonight’s restaurant: L’Oca Giulia. Attractive decor, warm. The food is good, and we especially enjoy interacting with our bright and personable server. We might be back.

We could have shown you our meal, if I’d taken any photos. Instead, you’re left with this oddly black and white photo of the wine.

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Ride stats today: 55 miles, 400’; for the tour: 1812 miles, 78,000’

Today's ride: 55 miles (89 km)
Total: 1,839 miles (2,960 km)

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