July 30, 2005
Day 74: Usk to Prince Rupert
We woke to a drizzle which soon became a heavy rain. At first, the cedar canopy kept the rain off my tent, but as the rain intensified, it penetrated everything. Truly a soaking downpour. I cussed in English because I was tired of speaking French. Jean Pierre smiled weakly and began packing up his things. I was totally pissed. I went back into my tent and dwelled on all the times that I had had rain on my Canada trips. Just made me madder.
About a half hour after Jean Pierre left, I decided to ride on into Terrace and take the train into Prince Rupert. It was pouring and I got drenched to the bone - despite my rain gear which includes a Northface Hyvent jacket. Even in Canada, people drive faster and more aggressively in bad weather. There was so much water on the road that I got sprayed every time a car passed. Some didn't even give me six inches. Sprayed isn't the right word. It was more like getting hit by a fire hose. I gave them the universal middle-finger salute, but they probably couldn't see me through the rain.
When I got to the Terrace visitors' centre I found out that heavy rain was predicted for the entire day. So that settled that. I was getting a train ticket. I called the hostel in Prince Rupert and they had room. I squished and squashed into the Wal-Mart next door and got a hot breakfast at the McDonalds. This was no time for political niceties. People looked at me, but I really didn't care. Afterwards, I went downtown, but many of the streets were blocked for the parade. I crossed them anyway. I found a laundry, changed clothes, and threw my stinky, wet ones into a dryer - sans washing.
Then I just happened to go downtown and catch the Nisga'a dancers. They were dressed in masks and hemlock branches with drummers and singers following behind in bright red button-blankets. Despite the rain, perhaps because of it, they energized the crowds watching under umbrellas - prompting waves of applause. It's interesting - there are serious tensions between native and non-native peoples up here, but Northwestern native culture is a defining feature of this region. Everyone recognizes and celebrates it.
I spent the afternoon at the library catching up on e-mail and newspapers. I arrived early at the train station which is the beautifully restored house of Terrace's founder. The train arrived on time!! I lifted my bike totally loaded into the baggage car - - ughhh! Gotta reduce the weight next trip.
When I got on board, I started to sit in an empty seat and a woman barked that it was "her" seat - i.e. two seats. So I said, "No problem, no problem." And a kid two seats back mimicked me. Turns out that Luke and his parents, Ann and Robert, were touring from England. As expected, Luke was a true Joe Darter. We had a delightful trip together. The Lower Skeena was as beautiful as ever, but socked in with rain and fog. I was glad I was on the train and worried about Jean Pierre.
I got to the hostel at nightfall. I met a Swiss couple I had talked with at Sunwapta Falls in Jasper Park. They were surprised to see me. I hung my wet stuff out back, did my laundry, wolfed down a sandwich, and collapsed in bed.
Today's ride: 18 miles (29 km)
Total: 4,033 miles (6,490 km)
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