June 6, 2005
Day 20: Kanab to North Rim
Boy, they sure were nice to us at the Kanab hostel. We got up early and packed away everything that we had gotten spread out all over the place. Nothing like doing laundry and staying indoors to get all your things discombobulated. Itty wanted to stop by the hardware store and we had plenty of time since we had to wait until 9:00 for the post office to open.
When we finally got on the road, there was a headwind - already. I warned Itty that he should expect a tough day - lots of miles - lots of climbing - and lots of wind. So after all of 8 miles to Fredonia, we rewarded ourselves with an ice cream cone. Itty is a true connoissieur of ice cream.
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Since the wind was coming up from the south-southwest, we decided to stay on Highway 89A rather than take the West Side Road, I wasn't sure Itty could do the dirt road section, anyway. Even so, the wind really sapped our strength. We were out in the complete open with nothing to block it. Plus there was a slow, steady climb.
It was actually easier when we started the steep climb into the forest on the Kaibab Plateau. We stopped for a late lunch at the overlook, but the observation area was mobbed with a big family reunion. When you're grumpy and tired, you just don't want to deal with a lot of people. It 's a 3000-foot climb to Jacob Lake. When we got there, we chilled out for a while - eating, phoning friends. We talked about catching the shuttle the rest of the way in to the North Rim, but it was full.
So it was rather late in the afternoon when we set out for the park. Itty was clearly pooped. He kept saying, "We'll never get there." I kept insisting that we would. The wind was not as bad - mainly because we were in the forest. But we were above 8000 feet. It was late. And it was getting pretty chilly. After we had ridden half way to the North Rim we managed to catch a ride with Earl and Sue and their black and white dog. We squeezed ourselves and our bikes into the back of the small pick-up and held on for dear life. Earl lit up something and shared it with Sue and flew down the highway - taking the curves more than a little bit fast. They dropped us off at the park entrance and we had a nice downhill ride to Bright Angel Point. I warned Itty that we had one last climb. Then we got into the campground right as darkness fell.
Itty had some hot chocolate at the camp store. Then we set up our tents in the dark while the winds came howling up from the canyon below. Oddly enough, the wind wasn't bad a few hundred yards from the rim. But the roar was as if from another world.
Today's ride: 82 miles (132 km)
Total: 1,083 miles (1,743 km)
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