Ragged Point

January 31, 2022

It’s cold again in Paso Robles today, just at freezing when we wake up. Another day where we have three or four hours to hang out while we wait for the day to warm up. And once it does, it still doesn’t figure to be the best riding day with overcast skies in the forecast. We have three riding days remaining in our stay here, so we look through the half dozen candidates I’ve mapped out, agree on the three we want to take, and match them up to the weather forecast to decide when to take them.

Today looks like the best for heading over to the coast where it’s modestly warmer and less windy. With the bikes still loaded in the car anyway, it makes an easy start to the outing as we head west on 46 for the coast. A half hour later we’re parked in Cambria and biking north up iconic Highway 1.

We’ve seen this road before. Like a old, familiar friend.

The plan today is an out and back to Ragged Point at the southern end of Big Sur. It’s a road I know well by now - I think I must have ridden this stretch about a half dozen times now, beginning with my first ride down the California coast from Salem back in 1980.

More recently, Rachael and I took this exact ride just last year when we were hiding out from Covid in Morro Bay - on my birthday, I’m surprised to be reminded when I look back now. Conditions were much different then as we enjoyed a glorious, warm sunny day. Not at all like today, when it’s still cold as we bike north into a moderate headwind under a grey sky; and only slightly less chilly when we’re blown back south again.

Same old beautiful road then, with not much new to report. We still didn’t make it out to the Piedras Blancas lighthouse, which I’d definitely like to do someday; or up to Hearst’s Castle, which we’ve never done and have no interest in doing either. If we want to see a castle we can afford to wait a few months to see a real one in France or Spain.

There is one thing though. We’ve never been here at this time of year, so we’ve never been here during elephant seal breeding season. It’s incredible looking at these thousands of giants sprawled on the beach again, but this time with small (small for an elephant seal, anyway) umber-hued infants bawling next to them and sidling up to the nearest tap for breakfast. As fine as the last two outings have been, today’s tops them for emotional appeal.

Image not found :( — At the elephant seal vista point. It’s an immense, noisy nursery scene today.

And it’s not just the charming nursery scene that makes it so special to be here today. There’s also the drama of the 5,000 pound bulls warring with each other, establishing their dominance and protecting their turf and harem.

We got a late start, we stopped for quite a while to watch the elephant seals and have lunch, and it’s a pretty slow ride north into the wind so even though we don’t stop much it’s fairly far into the afternoon by the time we finally climb up to Ragged Point.

Northbound, somewhere near San Simeon. Rachael and I stayed within sight of each other today for a change, but just barely.

Pop quiz! Be the first to identify all three!

Back on the bikes again, I’m startled to see that it’s already three. We stop for a few obligatory spots, including to check out a herd of elk out in the flats near San Simeon; but otherwise, we just ride. With the wind at our backs we do well and are back in the car by 4:30 and discussing the menu of a take-out pizza place on the drive back to our motel. We’ve enjoyed some fine dining here in PR so far, but for the rest of the way back to Portland it’ll be takeout fare. Rocky’s surgery is only a week off and she has to pass her Covid test Sunday so we’re taking no chances from here on out.

One more stop, but that’s it. Rocky insists.

A note on the videos. I’m including both this year’s and last, partly because there’s such a contrast but also because it tickled me to look back at the previous one and see that they’ve both got Stan Getz sound tracks. A pure coincidence. I got to pick the one last year because it was my birthday, and Rachael just happened on today’s scrolling through the catalog alphabetically.

December, 2020: Grandfather’s Waltz, by Stan Getz

January, 2022: Bahia, by Stan Getz and Charlie Byrd

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Ride stats today: 45 miles, 1,700’

Today's ride: 46 miles (74 km)
Total: 2,186 miles (3,518 km)

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Suzanne GibsonWonderful photos and video of the elephant seals! What an experience.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonIt was a wonderful experience. Has Europe got anything like this? Maybe we should reconsider.
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2 years ago

Angela NaefGreat videos, Loved the elephant seals!
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Angela NaefThanks, Angela. What a great show that was. I’ve gone back and rewatched it three or four times myself.
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2 years ago