Madera Canyon

January 15, 2022

It’s blustery in Tucson this morning, possibly the windiest day that we’ll see before we leave town. It’s blowing strongly enough that it convinces Rachael to avoid the bike today and take a walk instead, especially since her breathing issues seem to have worsened recently. She envisions going out for a few short walks throughout the day, starting with a foray over to Roma Imports to pick up some lasagna for me and treats for herself for our dine-in evenings. Rachael being who she is of course, this modest vision actualizes as a 12 mile walkabout.

On her way she strolls down 3rd Street east of campus and brings back a few photos of details I’d missed before when biking along there myself, wisely pointing out how much more I’d see if I’d just slow down and look around for a change.

Like this pretty remarkable cactus, looking like a wild cousin of a crested saguaro.

Or this beautiful kaleidoscopic bicycle, another detail I’ve apparently just sped past, my gaze fixed on rooflines looking for interesting chimneys.

Another bike from the same gallery, complemented by an array of ceramics. Also, the ladder is interesting - look how deformed one of its legs is, like it was fractured and reset badly. I don’t think I’d use it to clean the gutters from.

My short list of rides I want to fit in before we leave town includes one that isn’t on Rachael’s: Madera Canyon. We rode it once together, back in 2016 as a stop-off on our drive back from Silver City. Rachael doesn’t really remember that ride now, but before riding it again last winter we read the account of the first ride to refresh our memories and after she saw the description of the 13% grades at the end of the climb decided she’d make other plans for the day.

And this year she’s still not tempted to repeat the experience so I’m going to go on my own again or not at all. This is as good a day as any, I decide after looking up the weather forecast down there and see that winds are predicted to be about half the strength they are up here. As soon as the day warms up sufficiently I load Roddy in the Raven and head south for Sahuarita, the base for the ride.

It’s an easy drive down the freeway the whole way - 24 miles and 26 minutes according to the driving estimate, but one that I add fifteen miles to by missing the exit for I-19, a fact that escapes me until a few hints gradually seep through: like the signs for El Paso instead of Nogales, and the Rincon Mountains in my sights instead of the Santa Ritas. Finally I wake up, get off at Valencia, and double back, knowing that when Rachael hears of this she’ll remind me of how easy it would have been to use the navigation system instead of my memory.

This is my third time up this climb, and it hasn’t changed any so there’s little new to say about it. After a very pleasant few miles south from Sahuarita along Abrago Drive I join the road to Madera Canyon and start climbing. The first seven miles are an almost perfectly straight shot south aiming toward Mount Wrightson, a gradual climb through the open desert that would appeal more today if it weren’t for the wind - stronger than expected, and in my face enough that if I hadn’t invested in the drive down already I might have decided it was the wrong day for this ride and turned back. Mostly I’m thinking about how glad I am that Rocky didn’t come along with me or I’d be hearing about this for days.

Finally after seven miles the road bends southeast toward the mouth of the canyon and everything improves. The ride gets more texture and becomes more interesting, and the wind is at least neutral now if not quite a friend yet. It’s abating too as I start entering the mouth of the canyon. By the time I turn back it will be virtually still, so perhaps the weather monitor for the report I read is buried up here in the canyon where it’s calmer.

The view east to the Santa Rita Foothills. Most of the first seven miles of the climb look about like this - expansive desert views, with nothing to block the wind.

The CSU (Colorado State) cycling team flashed past at twice my speed - not that that’s saying all that much.

Finally after seven miles the road bends south and toward the mouth of the canyon.

Bending into the canyon. The wind abates, the climb stiffens a bit, and it’s getting colder up here two thousand feet from where I started climbing. I’m beginning to suspect I was a dope for leaving my coat in the car, the same mistake I made last year.

I enter the park and pull off at the wildlife viewing area, since from the crowd assembled there I suspect there might be some wildlife on display today. And there is - many birds are out, drawn by the feeding stations and roosts - turkeys, jays, goldfinches, nuthatches, hummingbirds. I’m sure I’d see more if I stayed around longer, but it’s too cold up here today and I’m starting to worry about that twelve mile descent ahead. I should at least not get too chilled before starting out.

Turkeys! There are about twenty of them milling about.

They’re such a colorful, iridescent bird when you get a chance for a good close-up look at one.

From time to time this guy would leap up to bat the feeder and spray some feed down to the ground.

Lesser goldfinches. It’s a dynamic scene. There were forty or more of them flitting around, coming to roost here and there until something larger would swoop by and cause them to briefly scatter before settling again.

And another acorn woodpecker, one of a half dozen hanging out. I just missed a photo of this guy here with a Mexican jay perched on top of the post just above his head.

Finally I tore myself away and continued climbing. It’s pretty cold though, easily the chilliest of the three times I’ve been up here. Cold enough that I lose my nerve and stop climbing about a half mile from the end of the road, thinking I need to quit losing heat and turn back. It’s only coincidental that this is about the point where the 13% grade begins. It just felt like it was time.

As I climb, the UCS team blasts past, racing their way down the canyon. Moving 30+mph, and they don’t even have long sleeves on. What am I worried about?

The upper part of the canyon is seriously appealing. Rocky and rugged, with live oak the predominant vegetation. We should drive down on a day with good visibility and take a hike.

So what is this alligator-skinned thing? Looks like a cypress or juniper except for its bark.

The ride down is long, fast, and very windy. The wind has picked up significantly since I entered the canyon, and must be blowing about 25 mph now - strong enough that the wind moans as it blows through the washes. Cold enough that I’m really regretting not having brought my coat or warm gloves. Cold enough that it makes me love our new Raven and its heated seats that start warming you up almost instantly once you power up.

Straight at Mount Lemmon for the next seven miles. There’s a light haze in the basin that gives it an almost ghostly look today.

A look east toward the Rincon range. Between the howling wind and my stiffening hands it’s a challenge holding the camera steady.

Video sound track: O Que É Que A Baiana Tem?, by Anat Cohen and Marcello Gonçalves

A note about the sound track, which I looked up the translation for because I was curious of the meaning. It translates as “What does the woman from Bahia have”, and is a song from the 1939 Broadway musical The Streets of Paris, later made into the 1944 film Greenwich Village. The singer? Carmen Miranda.

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Ride stats today: 37 miles, 2,500’

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 1,670 miles (2,688 km)

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Kelly IniguezJacinto rode up Madera Canyon as a side trip on the way to Amado several years ago. He had so many flat tires that he arrived well after dark. It was not his best day.

Wayne Estes stayed at a cabin up Madera Canyon and enjoyed it. I've pitched that idea a couple of times to Jacinto, but he never wants to see the canyon again . . .
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Kelly IniguezI think this the last time for me for awhile too. Actually it looks like a better hiking destination. We should just drive up and take a hike sometime.
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2 years ago