Prague

August 28, 2017

We slept in today, having shaved eight miles off today's ride yesterday. So only 30 miles to go and we arrive in Prague. Easy. Except we're a bit beat up! And no breakfast to be found either! We had trouble finding lodging in these parts, which is why we're in Týnec rather than Neveklov, our "planned" end point yesterday. We have decent accommodations but no breakfast, as it is more an apartment rental (another Airbnb-type place) than a full-service penzion. So our first mission was to find food.

We had spied another hotel in town when we arrived yesterday, right before the climb to where we are staying, and conveniently on the path that will recover our course for today. So we biked down and then climbed the slight rise into the parking lot. It was a big building and seemed closed, so at first I thought maybe it was just the town hall (in French, "hotel" is also the city hall), but I finally found the entrance and went in to check things out. Unfortunately, though, the only hotel in town only allows breakfast for hotel customers, not the general public. With no other options, at least on this side of the river, we crossed Sázava and headed to Lidl to shop for "morning" groceries.

And it turned out better than the COOP in Hevlín. Since Lidl is coming to the US (and just opened a dozen or so stores in South Carolina), it was worth a dry run from that perspective. And across the street was a public square where we camped out and chowed down. Bread and Camembert cheese, a sweet bun, an orange, and that was about it. Enough to get me to Prague. And it did!

Kenneth, shopping at Lidl. But we only bought food! No extra baggage!

Of course, the hearty dinner last night helped. Happy and Jerry finished up before Kenneth and me (this seems to be the continuing storyline), and, after some discussion amongst the four of us, they headed for the post office for stamps. They were then going to follow a route along the side of the river we were already on to recover the course. We were, of course, to follow.

Today's ride to Prague.

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By crossing the river to Lidl, we had actually gone off-course again since the course followed the river on the other side and then re-crossed to our side anyway, so why cross back over? That settled, Happy and Jerry pedaled off to the post office.

Then Kenneth and I caught sight of a historical marker in the square where we had been eating and, after perusing it, decided we wanted to return across the river after all, follow the original course, and catch some sights! No big deal, as we figured we were not far behind our buddies either way, and they had an errand to run.

I actually think we may have had the better deal. After re-crossing the river, we turned into the historic "old town" and were now able to fully appreciate it in daylight (rather than stumbling around in the early evening dusk and nighttime dark as we had done the night before). The trail on this side also more closely followed the river's edge, so we had some very nice scenery.

A bend in the Sázava River along the way out of town.

There was some climbing involved after we turned the bend in the river, after which the terrain rose to another village and a nice pedestrian bridge that we thought would make a great setting for a group picture. The bridge was one of the reasons we returned to the original course. Unfortunately, try as we might, texting Jerry and Happy produced no response. In retrospect, they beat us there and were already too engaged in the upcoming climb to notice our text messages. So we waited in vain and after a bit went our way. No group picture, but a decent picture of the bridge!

The suspension pedestrian bridge over the Sázava River, which we crossed before waiting for Happy and Jerry.

But all of that was the easy part, because across the river was the start of a very long climb. Twelve miles! But the grade was very manageable, if not perfect, really. I got into an easy gear and just went at it.

I had noticed the climb in the profile for today's course, but my mind had not really comprehended how that could be. OK, initially on crossing the river it made sense, but 12 miles? Yeap. And it was actually very nice. The first leg away from the river was through a wooded section and very scenic. But at every turn, it just continued. Some flattening out here and there, but mostly up. But like I said, an easy climb.

Kenneth, waiting in vain for the boys. The bend in the road was the start of the 12-mile climb.

And it was quite scenic . . . and gradual, really.

I also have to say, there were some strange route choices for the Greenway. I had come to get used to natural surface paths/roadways, but one very short section today was along a footpath! I haven't investigated it yet, but I imagine it was the best way to connect two hard-surface roads that are more suitable for biking.

A footpath, at best, on the Greenway to Prague. Fortunately, this was a short section connecting two hard-paved roads.

Postscript: There is a parallel road that is as bike-friendly as any other we've been on that was an easy 230 meters, about 750 feet, beyond the turn onto the footpath. Also, for some reason, this picture is misplaced on the RWGPS ride by about a mile (poor GPS connection maybe).

But it was a short section of narrow footpath (preceded a bit by a dirt road), and it wasn't raining, so not a big deal for us really. But we were still only about seven miles into today's ride and still climbing. And still mostly in a rural setting, even this close to Prague. At MP 15, however, we crossed our first (of three) major interstate-style highways. We were halfway to Prague, and the terrain turned from flat to downhill.

And to be very honest, the route from here into Prague was iffy at best. Of course, it was getting more urban, and the bike infrastructure here is not very developed, so there are the usual challenges. But we did take some nice designated trails for part of the way, but they were not always well signed, so there were several false starts and wrong turns along the way.

The first was at MP 20, and it got us over (actually, under) the second major highway, but the nicest section started shortly after MP 21, and it took us on a number of local trails and local streets and even through the middle of a train station before returning to a wooded section and the nicest part of the ride. The trail through Údolí Kunratického potoka (Kunratice Brook Valley) follows an extremely long downhill descent, followed by a sharp left turn onto a poor surface trail that led us to a main arterial road with a poor bike facility, poor signage, and a not-too-long climb back up to cross our third freeway.

While all that trail riding was nice, Prague could use a dedicated (and well-connected) bike trail into the city! Because outside of the trails we rode, the route after MP 15 or so was a hodgepodge of local roads, suburban roads, short bike path connections, and whatever else would work. It really did seem haphazard at best.

And once in Prague, it was relatively tough even for experienced cyclists. One hill we climbed, the last one into the central core, was also a tramway. Fair enough, but it was impossible to follow it without conflicting with the tram. Unbeknownst to me, one either followed me up the hill (can they move that slow?) or just happened to meet me at the top. But when I crested the hill and pulled aside to rest, he quietly glided by me. You cannot hear these coming up behind you, and I'm confident he did not ring his bell! Kudos to him for being a patient operator!

Elsewhere, I saw bike symbols in the actual tramway, between the rails, indicating this is where cyclists are to ride. But outside of that, I saw little or no bicycle infrastructure in Prague!

Arrival in Prague, trams everywhere! Seriously. More than I've seen in any other city, it seems.

And markings in the center indicating where cyclists are permitted (expected?) to ride.

Kenneth and I arrived together and wandered the city a bit before settling on a place for lunch and a beer while we waited for Happy and Jerry, who were not far behind. At some point we passed them, but I can't tell you where! But once we all gathered, we had a nice "farewell" lunch with Kenneth, who would ride with us no longer . . . at least not on this trip. We agreed to meet for dinner later after he returned his bike. So we split, checked into our hotel close to 3:00 PM, and relaxed.

I took off at 6:00 to wander Prague. Mostly the Old Town Square to take pictures with the setting sun. Later, the four of us gathered at an excellent restaurant, U Tří růží, for a true farewell dinner. Kenneth takes a plane tomorrow morning for home. We hang in Prague for two days, resting and taking in the city. More on that later!

In the old town square with the setting sun behind me. The Národní galerie - Palác Kinských (National Gallery - Kinsky Palace) is the dominant structure, with the Chrám Matky Boží před Týnem (Church of Our Lady before Týn) behind and to the right.

Restaurant row . . . on the first floors of what must have been rather stately mansions in their heyday.

Chrám svatého Mikuláše (St Nicholas Church).

A better view of the Chrám Matky Boží před Týnem (Church of Our Lady before Týn).

The Pražský orloj (Prague Astronomical Clock), which dates to 1410.

Karlův most (Charles Bridge), which crosses the Vltava River.

A happy gathering and farewell dinner for Kenneth, who flies home tomorrow.

Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 1,590 miles (2,559 km)

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