Persenbeug

August 16, 2017

Today started with rain, a very light drizzle, and overcast skies. But Happy assured us it was moving north and northeast, into the Czech Republic, and the day looked promising the further east we went. Well, that turned out to be true. By the time we left Linz, the rain had stopped . . . but the sun was still hiding behind very dark clouds.

But we were not alone. Hordes of cyclists had followed us into the city yesterday. We had arrived at about 4:30 and settled into a nice bar by 5:00, where Happy and I each had two beers. From that vantage point we watched a stream of touring cyclists ride into the city. And at 10:00 AM this morning, they were on their way out, along with us. It was a good feeling seeing all this activity, especially seeing so many young people. And I mean young! As in young children of all ages riding their bikes with their families, loaded up just like Mom and Dad! So, collectively, we exited the main square and crossed the bridge to the north bank of the Danube to continue our voyage to Vienna.

Today's ride to Persenbeug.

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The waterfront at Linz as we crossed the Danube on our way out of town.

A parade of cyclists joined us as we exited Linz.

As usual, the bike path was well designed and comfortable to ride. The Danube can be both beautiful and industrial; it's a working river after all. So there are less than ideal vistas along the way. But hey, it's a long, long river and plenty to see. And since we were on the north shore, at the first dam, I had the opportunity to observe the lock operations. We had passed dams yesterday, but we were on the south (or right) bank, and all the locks, at least so far, were on the north (or left) bank.

Our first dam after Linz, about 11 miles downstream, but viewing it from the upstream side.

It was hard to get a clear picture of what was going on (although I have a pretty good idea of how locks function!). Here, the gates are partially open . . .

And further downstream . . . a tiny boat that didn't make this operation.

The boat passing through was tiny, and the lock was huge! Huge enough to manage barges and the very long day cruise ships that tourists ride up and down the river. I was in no rush today and enjoyed watching the operation since, in this case, we were actually crossing the dam this time. Unfortunately, there were some sight issues, so some of the viewing was blocked, but it was fun nonetheless. After the boats entered, the gates closed and the lock filled with water, lifting them to the upstream river elevation. And as I turned to leave, there, downstream, was an even tinier vessel waiting its turn, having arrived too late for the massive operation already underway. "At what cost?" one has to wonder! And I wondered whether those boats had to pay a passage fee for each lock.

After crossing the dam, we found the opposite side of the Danube a delight to ride through. It was interlaced with waterways and lots of greenery, which the bike path wound its way through. We stayed on this side of the river for some distance, maybe six miles, before crossing back over in Mauthausen on a small ferry boat for 2.40 euros.

. . . which, while following the river, may follow other interesting paths.

Which led us to the ferry for Mauthausen.

All aboard! There was plenty of room for us three cyclists . . . and more!

We continued on downstream with great views of the river before breaking for lunch around MP 36, about eight miles past the second dam of the day.

Lunch . . . I think this was called "The Biker's Salad." Nothing to write home about, but it fit the bill . . . and my appetite (which allows me to eat large for dinner!).

After that, it was through more mountains, our second "pass" on the Danube, but there was no climbing this time as the trail stayed close to the river. But the views are stunning and provide a stark contrast to the wide plains we had ridden through for most of the day.

Immediately east of our lunch spot, the view downstream.

Approaching Greinburg. A very funny incident happened here, as there was a very steep incline for a very short distance to get into town. I saw it coming and ramped up my speed and made it. But some poor wife was standing and struggling at the base as her husband, at the top, cajoled her on. They both took it in good humor (as best I could tell).

Our hotel in Persenbeug, Gasthof Böhm, was a perfect place to enjoy a beer after the long ride. And as we sat in the courtyard under a huge shade tree, many more cyclists, including a family from Israel, rolled up to check in. Dinner there later was equally delightful.

In the courtyard and under the shade trees at Gasthof Böhm.

Today's ride: 53 miles (85 km)
Total: 1,187 miles (1,910 km)

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