Brünigpass - Not All Those Who Wander Are Lost - CycleBlaze

August 1, 2017

Brünigpass

Well, we had a nice day. No, better than that. We had a beautiful day. Full of variety and challenging experiences, even though we only went a short 24 miles. But we climbed nearly 2800 feet and truly enjoyed the day. Especially me, as I was able to bike another day in an area I had traveled through last year but, as yesterday, along the southern and "wilder" side of Brienzersee.

Today's ride to Brünigpass.
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We left Interlaken early after a good night's sleep. Our first five miles were easy and delightful. There were many cyclists out, and a few were touring as well. Today is Swiss National Day, which is (obviously) a national holiday, so most stores and businesses are closed, and everyone was out enjoying the holiday, even as early as 9:00 AM. Our route took us southward and along the shoreline of Brienzersee, which was a bit hazed over at this hour due to the humidity.

Brienzersee in the early morning light after leaving Interlaken. The haze indicates a humid day for us!
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Fortunately, after leaving the city, the first several miles were shaded. This is looking back toward Interlaken with the sun behind me.
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But I knew the climbing was coming! Unlike Thunersee, there is no continuous bike trail and road network along the shoreline connecting us to the Meiringen Valley and our climb to Brünigpass. And the main highway along the south shore, unlike on the north, is not bikeable. Not to say that there isn't a route. We are following Swiss Route 9 after all. But it will, by necessity, have to climb over the tunnels the main highway uses, so up we went, to Sengg.

The road — no, trail — up!
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At the top in Sengg, overlooking Brienzersee.
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The descent took us, way at least, down to Iseltwald, which gave us some stately views of the better half before we started climbing again.

An old hotel that appears to be under renovation. This was at the start of the pedestrian zone in Iseltwald.
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The harbor at Iseltwald with another stately hotel on the point. From this viewpoint, we had already started our second climb.
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This second climb was far more serious than the first. The mountains come down close to the water here, and to accommodate the highway, they built two very long tunnels. We would only get brief glimpses of traffic below us as we trudged through some pretty rough terrain. Difficult enough without the added burden of loaded bikes. But we geared down and tackled it — slowly!

The climb is steep and along shored earth . . .
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. . . and sheer rock walls!
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And there is no (or little) railing, so be confident in your steering!
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Almost near the "top." The guy in the blue/green shirt is on a power-assist bike. He zoomed right past us but acted exhausted at the top!
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The "top" was really just a series of rolling hills, so there was still plenty of climbing to do. And the pavement fell away for most of the balance of the trail.
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But there was this nice interlude as we passed over the third highway tunnel, so it wasn't all that horrible!
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But then, back on a natural surface. This amusing sign provided little assurance!
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And the descent was challenging as well since bikes and gravel are not a good mix. Especially with a narrow path. But we made it and were rewarded with a wonderful waterfall, the Giessbach Falls.

Our first view of the falls.
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A more dramatic view!
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A good overview, but there were even more steps below us.
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And the hotel where, with the right money, you can see it all!
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At this point, we were ready for lunch. And while a nice thought, we weren't really dressed for the Giessbach Hotel, so we trekked onward.

After the falls, we returned to hard pavement. It was good to be back on a solid footing, and it made the climb up from the falls, which are at a low point, much easier and faster. Afterward, we had a long descent down to the Aare River valley and a ride across the lowlands to Meiringen, where we had lunch.

The Meiringen Valley and the Aare River discharging into Brienzersee.
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A biking family of five. The youngest, who appeared to be a three-year-old at best, is way ahead!
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They love cycling here!
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Crossing the Aare River.
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We had the perfect lunch. My first rösti in Switzerland and a perfect carbo-loading for the last big climb of the day. Now, up to Brünigpass!

Carbo-loading for the climb! My first rösti this trip!
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It turned out to be partially unpaved as well, maybe 60% or so, and it was a steep grade. About 7.5% on average, which, in and of itself, is not horribly bad, but on a gravel road, it makes it very challenging. Especially if you are forced to stop, as getting started on a grade again is difficult when the surface is uneven and irregular.

Michaelskirche (St Michael's Church) at the base of the climb.
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From there, we turned left and started the climb. It went to gravel almost immediately.
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Although the switchbacks were paved.
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And they had these new, wider drainage slots, which were a bit unnerving.
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But periodically, there were great views to be had!
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But back to the grind!
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About a mile from the top, it became all paved, and we entered a meadow area and started seeing some houses.

The beginning of the paved section, looking back downhill.
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And a sprinkling of homes here and there.
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Finally, at the top! OK, maybe I'm not smiling, but that doesn't mean I'm not happy!
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At the top, we arrived to join a major roadway, but it was a flat-to-downhill three-mile descent to the hotel for the night. It afforded some great views of our work!

The town/village of Meiringen. We have climbed quite a bit, haven't we?
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And the view down the Aare and Brienzersee.
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Upon arrival I immediately ordered up a large beer! Being a national holiday, the hotel was closing early, and we were told to arrive no later than six. That was not a problem, really. I arrived at 3:00 PM, and Jerry followed not far behind. Happy arrived just as my second beer was delivered, which I immediately handed over to him, so he was content.

My reward! Plus, it was a hot day!
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Dinner was the only "problem," as our hotel closed at 7:00 and the one across the way was closed as well. Then it started raining, so wandering around on a hilltop looking for food was not going to be fun. But we were eventually pointed to the Gasthaus Brünig Kulm, where we had a delightful meal!

Gasthaus Brünig Kulm was not far away, just around a bend in the road.
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The start of another great meal!
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Today's ride: 24 miles (39 km)
Total: 624 miles (1,004 km)

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