Coupeville

August 1, 2019

Maybe it was the stress of yesterday’s ride, or perhaps we’re just feeling the effects of two weeks on the road without a break. Whatever the reason though, today’s ride up Whidbey Island felt like more of a challenge than it probably should have been. By the time we reached our inn in Coupeville, we were both ready to call it quits again and were looking forward to tomorrow’s rest day.

Not that Whidbey is an easy ride though. Like all the other islands in the Sound, it’s decidedly lumpy. As Mark Twain reputedly said, Life is one damn hill after another - or something like that. Riding this island, it feels like you’re climbing all day long, and often sharply. A steep, slow climb of one to three hundred feet; a fast drop down the other side; repeat. You never quite recover, and those short climbs add up.

We took our time this morning getting out the door in Mukilteo, and caught the 10:30 ferry. We arrived at Clinton on the island at 11, and started riding up the eastern shore. Forty five minutes later we were in Langley, just seven miles into the ride, and feeling like we should stop for a snack break since the next town was perhaps two hours away. While Rachael went shopping in the village market, I sat outside in the sun and chatted with the delicatessen cook, out on her break. It was an interesting, poignant chat - she’s retired, but back at work after unexpectedly losing her husband to a heart attack. They both retired not long ago, bought a camper, and were pursuing their dreams when they were abruptly cut far too short. Do it now, whatever your dream is.

The Mukilteo lighthouse sits on the harbor, just yards from the ferry terminal. Activated in 1906, its Fresnel lens still illuminates the bay today.

The Whidbey Island ferry arrives. It’s a short run, roughly 20 minutes, and crossings depart roughly every half hour all day long.

While waiting for permission to board the ferry we might as well spy on the crows. This one looks like a flamenco dancer.

Soon after starting off on Whidbey Island we ran into this trio and exchanged cycling notes. They’ve all done some significant international cycling, but we were especially interested to hear of the man in yellow and his ride south from Bariloche.

On Zimmerman Road, an obsoleted road now open only to foot and bike traffic. Besides being a pleasant ride, it’s a short cut that lops off some climbing on Bob Galbreath Road.

On Whidbey Island somewhere, could be anywhere.

The view east from Langley. The mountains are the formations east of Everett; I think the highest must be Glacier Peak.

Yup, it’s Glacier Peak. A stratovolcano, it’s a significant peak that tops out at over 10,500’ - just a few hundred feet shy of Mount Baker.

Video sound track: Hey! Bo Diddley (variations), by Alex De Grassi

This is a very attractive little public waterfront access, a few miles east of Coupeville. The emphasis is on little - the public strip is confined to the ribbon between these two private property signs. Just about enough room to turn your bike around in disgust and resume the ride.

On the final descent back to the coast, I had a scare when a young deer suddenly emerged from the shadows, not two feet from my right shoulder. It was on the verge, all but standing in the bike lane. I flinched, started to swerve a bit, and then immediately pulled back because I hadn’t checked for cars behind me. I wasn’t really at risk of spilling, but it did catch my attention.

We rolled in to Coupeville precisely at 4:01. It’s remarkable how often we have ended the day within about a fifteen minute band - it must have been about two thirds of the time over the past two weeks. Rachael immediately set to work scanning the stack of menus from the restaurant book at our inn, found the one that looked best, gave them a call, and found that if we wanted a table we needed to show up at 5. We rushed through showers, changed in a hurry, and dashed out the door. Afterwards, I grabbed the camera and headed for the waterfront to soak up an incredibly beautiful sundown.

Rest day tomorrow!!

I didn’t see any sign of what this is - an old cannery, perhaps. I liked the lineup on the roofline though, and was sorry I wasn’t just a bit quicker on the draw. A minute earlier, one of the gulls slipped off the ridge and was sliding down the side. He kept trying to get traction and walk back up, but finally gave up and took wing.

The Coupeville grain wharf. Built in 1905, it was used for exporting grain grown on the island.

Image not found :( — The Coupeville waterfront and it’s wharf

The view west toward the end of Penn Cove

I was amazed by this view. We’ve stayed in Coupeville twice before, but both times it was overcast. I had no idea there was such a fine view of Baker from here.

At least I assume this is Baker. When I look at the map though, it’s not clear whether you can see it from Coupeville. Anyone know for sure?

Another view of the mountain, framing a heron perched on a piling.

Nice perch. This bird was amazing - he didn’t leave it for the entire half hour I wandered around the wharf.

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Ride stats today: 41 miles, 2,900’; for the tour: 636 miles, 29,400’

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 636 miles (1,024 km)

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Keith KleinHI,
Coastlines can have a lot of hills, cant they? Much more wearying than long climbs, I think.
Cheers,
Keith
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4 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Keith KleinYup. Keeps you young, at heart if not in fact. Satchel Paige would approve.
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4 years ago

Jacquie GaudetI'm pretty sure we were on Whidbey Island when Al said, "the scenic route is never flat." Not always true, but usually. I remember being exhausted.
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4 years ago