I start a bit past 10am, and I love the sight of the old town perched on the hillside. I wish I took a picture. 

I stop in the village of Sablet for breakfast. There is a wedding just letting out, and it seems like the entire village is in attendance. People spill out on the street in their finest outfits as they follow the newly-married couple. The scene has big Godfather Michael/Apollonia wedding vibes.

I roll out onto the backroads to Avignon, following farm access roads that snaked through vineyards. Even though I rarely drink, I still recognize the name -- Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Okay, if I weren't solo, I would stop for a tasting. It feels like such a waste rolling past these dégustation signs. Now, I'm no wine expert, but being here, I wonder how the setting of the different vineyards affects the final taste. One vineyard I pass has hedges along the roadside, and all the grapevines are planted in the back, away from the pollution. 

The town of Sorgues has me all turned around. So many road closures and one-ways. I lose half an hour just trying to get on a road to Avignon. But overall, today is an easy day. Not even 100m of elevation gain. The closer I get to Avignon, the busier it gets. I finally get to my hotel -- the ibis budget. One major benefit of this chain is that they have noon check-in and noon check-out. I am showered and out to explore Avignon by 2:30pm. I haven't eaten anything other than the pastries in Sablet this morning, and I'm extremely hungry. 

Avignon is very pretty. There are lots of racks and tables on the street with things for sale. "Braderie" signs are everywhere. It reminds me of Montreal in the summer. The gourmand shops here are way more expensive - lavender, tapenade, nougat, calissons, confitures, honey, everything! I have a mediocre sandwich, but that'll tide me over until the restaurants open for dinner. 

Heart

1

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply

I hear an organ playing, and follow the sound to a church. I stop in and take a seat. The music is delightfully moving, and I can feel the power of the instrument. This is the first time I've heard an organist live. I pass an hour, maybe more just enjoying the music. The only thing that could make this more perfect (a pipe dream) is to have a chaise/daybed to recline on while listening. 

I get on a tourist trolley to take me around this city. It's kitschy but I love it. We pass the Pont d'Avignon, of nursery song fame. 

Heart

1

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply

Heart

1

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply

There's a few museums scattered about the city, all free, and they're good but nothing really stands out. Once you've been to the national collections, the municipal collections just can't compete. 

It's been two weeks that I've been on the road now. It feels like longer because I'm cycle sightseeing. When I saw the Pont d'Avignon, I didn't feel anything. Maybe I just love the natural world the most. And small villages. I feel more and more convinced that my ideal way of living is two homes not more than three hours from one another on the west coast. A city pied-à-terre, and a tranquil retreat in the mountains. 

Because persistent rain is in the forecast, I decide to fast-forward. I wanted to visit La Grande-Motte for the architecture. Detouring to Arles or Nîmes won't keep me dry either. So tomorrow, I'll take a train to Carcassonne. I've been reading about the Cathar Castles so I guess that adventure starts now. And hey, what a way to escape the mistral winds. I should have time to ride to Pays Basque before it gets too cold.