Digne-les-Bains to Castellane - The Velotour Gourmande: Ten Weeks Through France, Spain, and Sardinia - CycleBlaze

September 11, 2024

Digne-les-Bains to Castellane

Lyse and Lucas have to head out early for work, so we're all out the door by 8am. Tamara and I roll into downtown, where vendors are setting up for the weekly market. Digne-les-Bains' is Wednesday (lucky us!), and I am salivating at everything on view. There's a baker with a gazillion different brownies. I settle on the orange zest brownie. It looks like there's candied orange peels baked in too. I couldn't hand over my money fast enough. Take it all! Give me the brownie! Today has three major climbs, a total of 1257m of elevation gain, so the brownie is not a want but a need. 

At the market, we stock up for our picnic lunch. Unfortunately, we couldn't get a Cavaillon melon because of bulk. We make up for it by snacking on another local specialty -- tourtons (fried ravioli). 

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We are entering the Gorges du Verdon, a dramatic limestone gorge anchored by the brilliantly cerulean Verdon river. There are canoë (rafting) excursions, and we plan to take a half day for it once we reach Castellane. I'll let the views speak for themselves. 

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After the second climb, Tamara and I regroup for a roadside picnic lunch. There's a long pullout and plenty of picnic tables. We eat very well. 

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Just one more climb to go!

On the way up, I was pulled over to finish my brownie, when a group of three guys in matching blue jackets came along. Hello! Bonjour! Hola! Wait what, is this the United Nations cycle squad? They disappear into the climb. After I finish my brownie, I get back on the road, and pass Tamara. I'll see her at the top. Typically, I wait at the top of ascents, and she waits at the bottom of descents. But we climb and descend at our own speeds. 

At the top, I see the three guys again. They cheer for me as I crest the hill to the bar. Turns out, they're Swiss-German! They did this ride together when they were 18, and twenty years later, they're doing it again! What a cool trip. I'm sipping on a coca and charging my bike computer (seriously, this Wahoo Bolt battery sucks) when I see a guy crest solo. I cheer for him. Minutes later, Tamara comes along. We enjoy a well-deserved break before heading back out to our bikes. It turns out, this man was part of the Swiss-German group, but they dropped him! We all descend together into Castellane before splitting up. Tamara and I are staying in a campground in one of those glamping set-ups. Later, we're back in the square for dinner. The tourism office tells Tamara that unfortunately, the canoë tours are not running tomorrow because of high winds. Too bad. In the square, Yvo comes up to us! We end up having dinner together, all six of us. I mostly talk with Yvo, who is the most proficient in English as he worked in Australia for a few years as an engineer. Now, he's a firefighter in Bern. It's so nice speaking in English. It's the language where I have a personality. I regret not exchanging contact info after dinner, but in my defense, I was getting very cold.

Tamara and I ride in the dark (love night riding) back to the campground. A cold trundle back to the tent after a hot shower is not a vibe, but I know I'll be out like a light as soon as I crawl under the covers.

Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 339 km (211 miles)

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