August 25, 2005
Hills and Grit
Adelaide to Washington
Woke up, fell out of tent. Froze my butt before I went.
It was in the 50s and all my camping gear was soaked in dew. I slept poorly. I changed the flat tire hoping to find glass. Instead I found a pinch flat, caused by hitting one of the irregularities on the trail with the heavy load.
The camp store was closed so on one bottle of water and an energy bar I left for West Newton where I hoped to find a trailer at Korber's trailside bike shop. The riding seemed more strenuous than yesterday and the trail was not quite up to yesterday's standards. The scenery is relentlessly green and the sounds of the river and the trains passing on the opposite bank made for a near perfect ride. Every five miles I checked my back tire and it seemed to be holding up well.
I arrived at Korber's and learned that they were out of trailers and that my back brake had once again started to rub. A Korber's mechanic adjusted it. I ate a really bad roast beef sandwich at the deli next door and took off down Bike Route S, on the road and over the hills west.
For the life of me, I have no idea how I rode 80-odd miles of this two years ago. One ridge after another all the while worrying about that back wheel. I managed somehow to break 40 mph on a downhill even while braking intermittently.
The road west reaches the Monongahela River after six miles of torture, thrills, torture, thrills... The road north along the "Mon" is a workin' man's road. Truck after truck in a hurry to get somewhere. Mostly I was given a wide berth but it was not a pleasant ride.
After crossing the river I entered the city of Monongahela (a clever name, don't you think?). The City of Mon has seen better days. You can almost hear Meryl Streep blubbering "Oh, Michael!" as you pass the old buildings.
Heading West at New Eagle, I recalled how surprised I was to find the road pretty easy two years ago. Today I did okay but the effort was draining. I can tell whether I'm having fun by how many photos I take. Today I took one. The heat and relentless traffic on narrow roads really wore away at my mood.
I arrived at Washington and stopped at a Post Office looking for a bike shop. The clerk gave me a yellow pages and I called a shop in town. No trailers. I continued on the S route until I came to a McDonalds. The counterperson gave me a free bottle of water with my meal. I must look dreamy, I thought. A passing cyclist stopped and asked me dozens of questions about my bike. He gave me directions to a motel which I swear I followed, but found myself lost instead. Two men sitting outside a volunteer fire department set me straight. I checked into a Days Inn with funky 60s architecture. I checked my rear wheel: it was rubbing against the brake pads again.
A few observations on western PA are in order. First, mufflers are apparently optional on all vehicles. Second, the state should change it's motto from "You've got a friend in Pennsylvania" to "Get on the sidewalk, asshole!" Third, air brakes on dump trucks should be the official state anthem.
Tomorrow I have a date with the bike shop in town to see if the owner can get my wheel in order. Since I can't get a trailer until Columbus OH some 3 days away, I may just send my camping gear home and rely on motels from here to Indiana. The only alternative is extensive emergency liposuction.
Today's ride: 62 miles (100 km)
Total: 369 miles (594 km)
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