In Whitehaven: a photo gallery

July 28, 2022

Whitehaven was a late addition to the itinerary, a destination we never planned on coming to. A few weeks back though we were critically reviewing the upcoming rides and decided that we’d be happier lopping off a day from the three we’d planned in Nether Wasdale and breaking the long, challenging ride from Keswick to Wasdale in half. We’d enjoy the ride more, and shorter travel days might be welcomed if weather took a turn for the worse.

I thought of this decision with gratitude yesterday as we climbed the last ascent for the day under the threat of rain. It would be no fun to be at this point with still another twenty miles ahead of us, mostly to be ridden in the rain.

Whitehaven was historically an important port town, and for a period of time in the 18th century it was the second busiest port by tonnage in England, following only London. The town largely came into being with the development of its massive coal reserves, largely mined underwater through innovative mining techniques. Primary traffic through the port was the export of coal to Ireland and the import of tobacco from the colonies in America and sugar, coffee and cocoa from the Caribbean.

Whitehaven was developed as a Georgian planned town, one of the first and best preserved in England. It includes over 170 listed historical properties. Between the port and the town itself there’s plenty to see here, and it would have been worthwhile to spend a second or third day here to explore the area and bike or hike north along the coast.

It was wet when we arrived though, we were tired, and we did well to fit in a four mile walk around the port in conjunction with dinner.

Whitehaven boasts of more than 170 listed historical properties.

Isn’t that the cover from Bob Dylan’s Nashville Skyline album?

Species-appropriate fountains. The top one spouts ale, undoubtedly.

On the waterfront, the John Paul Jones Pub. Jones, born a Scotsman, was an important figure in the Revolutionary War, recognized as the father of the American Navy, and the source of the famous quote “We have not yet begun to fight”. Among his accomplishments: a raid on Whitehaven, resulting in the burning of much of the town.

Neptune, a feature on John Paul Jones Pub.

In Saint Nicolas Gardens, the Childrens Mining Memorial: one of the most unsettling memorials I can remember seeing.

On each of the four faces of the memorial are listed the children, by age and date of death, that died working the coal pits listed at the bottom.

Whitehaven’s waterfront is fascinating, full of interesting details. These are four of a series of sculptures of seamen’s knots. Clockwise from the top left: the cats paw, midshipman’s hitch, heaving line bend, granny knot.

Between a heaving line bend and a granny knot.

The harbor is a complex place, a large bay protected by sweeping jetties and entered through a sea lock. Inside are several different quays, new and old. I think this is the watchtower beside the sea lock.

The tower is the Candlestick Chimney, a ventilation shaft for one of the waterfront coal mines.

This is the old pier, a somewhat hazardous place with its very irregular footing from stones worn by centuries of traffic and erosion. I tripped and nearly fell once, and did well to not dash the camera on the stones.

On the right evening the sunset here must be phenomenal.

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Lyle McLeodWhitehaven looks like a lovely place. This is one reason I really like following other folks travel journals! We started our first ever cycle-tour-with -kids in Whitehaven back in August 2004. Getting a 9 and 11 year old plus two rental tandems organized for a bike tour leaves precious little time to check out the town you are in. Once again thanks for showing us what we missed when we were there ;
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Lyle McLeodNot exactly lovely - it’s just a bit shabby, really; but definitely worth a look. I hope we can make it back some year.
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1 year ago