In Ely: OAB to the west

June 30, 2022

The Fens evoke a fascinating image. Until they were drained just a few centuries ago, envision this vast area as a shallow, marshy wetland with a few scattered clay islands rising above it. Ely, the highest of these islands, rises about 80 feet above, the highest ground for miles around and approachable only by boat. The water teemed with eels, the alleged source of the city’s name as the ‘isle of eels’. Some miles off other low islands rise above the mire, crowned by smaller communities such as Coveney and Sutton. This article paints a vivid picture of life then and of the multi-century effort to drain the fens and open the region to large scale sustainable agriculture.

Towering above all of this and visible from far off in the distance is the enormous Norman cathedral of Ely, standing tall since 1083 when its construction was initiated by William the Conquerer not long after he conquered England. Known as the Ship of the Fens, its size and prominence reminds me of Chartres. As an aside, I especially like the detail that the cathedral was built with stone purchased from nearby Peterborough Abbey for the price of 8,000 eels per year.

Today’s reality though is less romantic: it’s mostly just a large, almost monotonous expanse of absolutely flat crop lands, broken up by green ribbons lining it’s numerous channels and rivers and punctuated by scattered low rises. Not the most compelling terrain actually, but if you find the right quiet roads through it makes for vey pleasant and restful cycling.

Today’s ride is a simple out and back west to nowhere in particular. Here are some scenes along the way.

A familiar scenario on an out and back. I’ll see her again in fifteen or twenty miles.

Zooming in on the Ely Cathedral from Coveney, the next island to the west about four miles off.

A relic from the past in Coveney, described on the info panel as the pound and lock-up: “a combined facility to restrain 2 and 4 legged strays, built around 1850.”

Saint Peter ad Vincula, Coveney dates from the 13th century. This was the last church in the islands to retain a thatched roof, finally replaced with slate in 1896.

In The Fens. Many of these roads are lined with rows of purple mallow.

It’s not remotely like in the past of course, but these waterways still form a significant barrier to transportation. There are relatively few through routes to choose from because they all have to funnel through a few scattered bridges.

It can still flood here though. This is the causeway alongside the road between the Delph and Great Ouse Rivers. I’ve seen photographs of this spot, the road completely submerged and the walkway above water.

She must have sensed I was watching after I passed by, and gave a smile and friendly wave afterwards.

Saint Andrew’s Church in Sutton, another Fen Island.

The view south from Sutton. At 83 feet above sea level, this is the high point of today’s ride.

Crossing the Great Ouse (fittingly pronounced ooze) from the Gault Bridge. Like all of the rivers formerly slowly meandering through the fens dropping their sediment, it’s been straightened as part of the drainage effort.

On the way back through Coveney we detoured to show Rachael the thatching project. The crew is apparently on lunch break so Rachael will want to watch the video.

Video sound track: Skippin’, by Yasmin Williams

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Ride stats today: 43 miles, 1,000’; for the tour: 537 miles, 22,100’

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 537 miles (864 km)

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Kathleen JonesSaw this on my social media feed right after I finished reading this post:

I May, I Might, I Must
by Marianne Moore

If you will tell me why the fen
appears impassable, I then
will tell you why I think that I
can get across it if I try.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesMarianne Moore! There’s a name I haven’t heard in a long time. I looked up the poem to read the whole thing, but I see this is it. Almost a haiku.
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1 year ago