Linden Angels - Underground Railroad Route (Southern Half) - CycleBlaze

April 16, 2010

Linden Angels

In spite of drinking liquids throughout the night, I still felt rough the next morning. I suspect I was experiencing effects from a virus I had been fighting off for the past week. Once we got on the road we decided to make it a short day, planning to find a hotel in Linden, Alabama. Upon arrival at noon, it appeared the hotel listed on the route was no longer open. We stopped under a huge shade tree outside the Marengo County courthouse in the center of the city while we decided where to eat and where to stay. It turned out we were just across the street from the office of the "Democratic Reporter" local newspaper. A reporter walked over and asked to interview us and take our picture. While I was talking to him, a gentleman walked up and engaged Rhona in a conversation. When he learned about our trip he insisted on giving her $20 to buy lunch. He (Bill G.) realized that our lodging arrangements were uncertain and invited us to stay overnight in his barn at a farm four miles out of town. He said he had the second floor of the barn renovated and it really was nice. He realized we a little taken back by the invitation from a complete stranger and that the ride 4 miles out of town in the heat of the day was a consideration. He suggested we eat lunch across the block at the "Whistle Stop Cafe" and then meet him and his wife (Jane) at his house behind the restaurant. After he left, Rhona and I tried to decide if we should accept his offer. One of the things we try to do on a bicycle tour is step outside of our comfort zone and be open to new experiences with people we met. Rhona crossed the street to the newspaper office figuring that in a small town, someone would know Bill G. It turns out the lady at the front desk described herself as Bill's "ex-sister-in-law" (his first wife had died several years previously). She assured Rhona that they were very good people and that we would like it out at his renovated barn.

After lunch Bill gave us a tour of his fascinating home which he and Jane had filled with beautiful antiques, including cut glass using old store counters as display cases. Bill joked that we could have stayed overnight at the home except they had filled all of the spare rooms with antiques.

Bill loaded our tandem in the back of his truck and drove us out to his farm. Bill was overly modest when describing the work he had done on renovating the barn; it was beautiful inside, including a flat screen TV, antique furniture and B & B style bed covers with silk sheets. Bill left us to rest for a while and he and Jane returned later with supper for us*. They really had thought of everything to make us comfortable. Bill repeatedly encouraged us to stay as long as we wanted. We had a great night's sleep.

*Rhona said I didn't adequately describe dinner. Jane brought a seafood dinner for me but didn't know what to bring for Rhona (a vegetarian). Well, she did just fine: a salad, whole wheat crackers, nuts, bananas, and a delicious cantaloupe.

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 174 miles (280 km)

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