October 14, 2011
Dijon to Chateauneuf-en-Auxois: A great start!
WEATHER: Sunny! Tailwind!
It felt really good to get back on our bikes and to feel well-rested. Our first serious day of cycling was beautifully sunny, and we had a tailwind for a good part of the route. We had decided to stay at Chateauneuf-en-Auxois after reading John Fleckner's journal 'France in the Fall' (http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/7708). His photos were irresistible, and it was a good distance to ride on our first day.
We started off from Dijon on the smooth paved path along the Canal du Bourgogne, passing locks with nicely-kept stone houses and flower gardens along the way. After about 20 kilometres the pavement ended, but the hard-packed surface was okay for a little longer, after which we followed the D33 to the small village of Gissey-sur-Ouche, where we stopped for lunch at Restaurant L'Etape. Their menu du jour included a salad buffet and pork spareribs, as well as dessert, so we carried on feeling quite well fortified.
In the afternoon we cycled on quiet roads through rolling pastureland dotted with large white Charolais cattle. After seeing a few red poppies here and there, we suddenly came upon a whole field of them--completely unexpected in mid-October. When the road veered closer to the Canal du Bourgogne, it levelled out, and we saw more locks and canal boats, as well as a marina in a wide spot just before we turned northwest at Le Pont d'Ouche, and then after about five kilometres crossed the canal at the turnoff for Chateauneuf-en-Auxois.
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The last two kilometres were steeply uphill to the tiny scenic village of Chateauneuf. We had looked at the main part of town on Google Street-view, and as we turned a sharp corner near the top of the hill, there it was in the flesh (or the stone). After checking into the Hostellerie de Chateau, right next to the 13th century castle and admiring the view from the small windows in our room, we set out to explore the town, still in warm sunshine. We toured the castle, largely ruined, with good views over the whole valley, and then walked the few streets, lined with picturesque stone buildings and nice gardens with cosmos blooming everywhere.
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Our four course dinner at the hotel was delicious and introduced us to the separate cheese course, served before dessert and common in Burgundy. Most of the cheeses were soft ones, and we particularly enjoyed the époisse. Our first course was poached egg in mushroom sauce, followed by breast of duck, then a sampling of cheeses, along with a 1/2 bottle of Cote du Beaune, and finally tarte aux pommes for dessert. We slept well that night!
Today's ride: 52 km (32 miles)
Total: 78 km (48 miles)
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