Reims to Verdun

August 4, 2016

It was an easy ride out of Reims along the Canal de l’Aisne. We followed it for seven miles on a very, very, almost flat, slight grade. That's what going upstream is all about! The canal has functioning locks, although we saw no heavy industry actually using it. But it was already late in the morning. Even though we had risen early, we stopped to check out and possibly buy a SIM card, and that turned into a one-hour effort! But we have a SIM card even if not activated yet!

Today's ride to Verdun.

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Our goal was to make Suippes by 1:00 for lunch, and we pretty much were successful, arriving by 1:15. Of course, our goal was also to depart at 10:00, which we did, but we didn't budget the SIM card into the equation. But the riding continued flat along various streams, and our speed stayed high as a result.

Riding along La Vesle (which is probably that line of trees behind me).

We had eyed several places for lunch but were leery they might close after 2:00 for the afternoon. And on a 70-plus-mile day, we wanted to be sure we ate!

Suippes is surrounded by some sort of military camp or installation, but we saw little or no evidence other than signs, the occasional gate or fence, and one display of military equipment at an entrance to a brigade headquarters. Mostly we saw trees and rolling fields. It was still mostly "flat," but we had definitely been climbing. But it wasn't much based on our Garmins.

Well, Suippes was a sizable town but a disappointment on the food front. They have lots of places to eat, but only a boulanger was open, and it was strictly take-out. They offered whole pizzas (six slices) and an assortment of sandwiches, which were very good. I settled on a jambon and gruyere with eggs, tomatoes, and lettuce.

Oh, and the weather. Overcast with on-and-off rain. I had gotten so used to it that I couldn't remember when it was on and when it was off. But it was never very heavy, more of a spitting rain, so easily ignored. This was our third day of overcast skies, yet the prediction was 77°F by the time we arrived in Verdun. I had even worn my very lightweight jersey under my rain jacket in anticipation. But it never rose over 64°F and actually hovered in the high 50s for most of the morning.

On to Verdun!

After Suippes, the terrain definitely picked up character. More farming-oriented and more rolling hills. We were supposed to climb 3000 feet today, but most of it was in the last 30 miles, with most of that in the last 20! But for now, the riding was easy.

And then we saw the sunflowers. This was our first sighting, so we stopped to take pictures. This was just east of Suippes, and the hills were long and gradual. At the peaks, it gave you nice vistas of the rolling terrain and the villages in the distance.

And rolling hills with windmills and villages in the distance.

We also stopped briefly in Sainte-Menehould for some pictures of the town square.

That is also where the climbing started in earnest! I would say it peaked at the pass where Clermont-en-Argonne is situated, but it actually got a bit tougher after we diverted from the main highway and made a bee-line for Verdun.

At that point, the main road, D603, follows the valley into Verdun, wrapping around the hills west of town. Instead, we went up and over them, something like four times, each first descending before climbing again just a bit higher! All in a day's work. Our road was much quieter than D603 and more scenic for sure. Decisions one makes when cycle touring!

The hills west of Verdun, still about 20 miles out and right before the climb into Clermont-en-Argonne.

And the climb into Sivry-la-Perche. That climb went for 2-1/2 miles.

Partway up, it leveled out a bit, and we were greeted with more sunflowers!

Beyond Sivry-la-Perche and eyeing our last hill.

After much climbing, Verdun finally lay at our feet. All downhill from here!

I liked Verdun, which is mostly known for the major fighting that occurred here in World War I. But the city has a long history and has been the center of attention during several military campaigns and battles long before WWI. The citadel dates to the 17th century! And while all of that is interesting, Verdun is also a beautiful city situated on the Meuse River, and the locals have made good advantage of that!

Our entrance into the old town was through one of the gates of the citadel.

One of the many monuments to the WWI battle.

Mussels are in season, and these were really plump!

Today's ride: 74 miles (119 km)
Total: 219 miles (352 km)

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