May 12, 2018
Day 47: Rochefort to La Rochelle
The day started cold (10 degrees) and with light rain. We confidently dug out the fleecies we had bought at Decathlon in Agen with the Woodlands. With these under our raincoats, we should be fine.
It turned out that the cycle path actually goes right by the hostel, and that we would have had to backtrack on that to reach Rochefort downtown. In view of the weather, we decided to just push on. However we did learn one thing about Rochefort, from a pamphlet. That long building that we had guessed was a barracks turned out to be a rope making facility during the age of sail. Apparently you can buy a ticket to visit this, and even make some of your own rope. It was not enough to attract us backwards.
On the forwards side, we soon found ourselves back in the type of salt marsh we had entered at Marennes. This time we could add one more animal types to those we had seen: A hairy ass. We had seen these sometime before in Europe and had had fun with it in the blog. But now we are far too mature to get any laughs from the Hairy Asses!
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We were also, as yesterday, on the Velodysee cycle route. We noted also that for a bit we were also on "La Flow Velo". We enjoy the various names that have been given to cycle routes, like the Scandiberique, the Francette, and the Veloscenie. So we will add this one to our list. It's just a baby one, though, running basically east from Rochefort for 200 km. It could be useful in a trip that means to cut out the Canal du Midi, as part of a link from here to Montpelier.
While we were still in the greater Rochefort area we noticed first a crowd of people and then what had attracted them: Decathlon. We thought the excitement might be a sale, or perhaps just waiting for the doors to open. It turned out to be a Decathlon sponsored walking group.
We had an excuse to go into the store, since yesterday our immersion heater packed it in. They turned out to have neither that nor a small kettle, but Dodie did come out with another seat bag. She loves these things.
One of the special features of being here on the Atlantic coast is the prevalence of beaches or other coastline. The cycle way likes to take you along this, which is generally fine.
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But today, the coast meant strong wind driven rain. The amount of rain and the wind speed both increased, at a time when we found ourselves threading along the narrow bike lane on the road in front of Chatelaillon-Plage. We felt really exposed and really started to get chilled.
This is about the third time on this trip when rain, and specially wind driven rain, has really chilled us. We kept going, since really there was no other option, but it soon became clear that we would need to stop at La Rochelle. Our booking about 25 km further on, normally no problem, was now impossible.
With the wind blown rain, my camera needed to stay under cover, but I did risk taking it out to record just a little of our arrival at La Rochelle. This begins with a harbour that is an impressive forest of sail boat masts.
The inner harbour is then guarded by three towers, which are symbolic of the city.
Tourist Information (open!) suggested a hotel confusingly named the B&B - which is in fact a chain. Paradoxically the B&B does not include breakfast, but no matter - they had a room and with it the prospect of some warmth and dryness. Now, 2 1/2 hours later, we are mostly recovered but still feel a little chilled. The rain has just stopped. Maybe in a while we will creep out and look at the town. Watch for a further report, but right now it's under the fluffy quilt!
...We emerged from the quilt, looked out the window and saw no rain, got dressed up in our warm and waterproof stuff, and ventured outside. That was just in time for the rain to start again. We put up with it long enough to get to a small grocery. Abandoning plans to go downtown and find a nice restaurant, we bought some salads, and chocolate bars, and slunk back to our room. We are saying we will look at La Rochelle town tomorrow, but if it is raining still (or again) we will be happy just to make it to our next stop. That involves going to Marans and then striking off on the Francette, which will be all new to us. We are going back under our quilt until then!
Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 3,107 km (1,929 miles)
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