Day 32: Pamplona to Saint Etienne de Baïgorry (France)

May 24, 2023

Today is a longer day that is taking us across the Pyrenees Atlantiques into France. We have an option where we can do a longer ride or a shorter ride. After last night's route review, we are perplexed as both are supposed to be beautiful routes. So, of course, we opted for the long route with more climbing; but we chose this route because it goes through Saint Jean Pied de Port as we haven't been to this French town yet.

The weather is questionable today - cooler and we're climbing into the mountains where rain is scheduled for about 2 p.m. We loaded the bike with rain jackets and wind jackets, while wearing arm warmers.

The two routes leave Pamplona together . . . and well that was a challenge in itself. We were routed along bike paths until we were out of the city. I noticed that the first 10k took us 45 minutes. The hardest part was getting started on the path. See for yourself.

We checked and double checked, yes, the Garmin route takes us across this bridge.

Michelle was as confused by the directions as we were, but together we made it across. It's really a cool footpath bridge tho.

These guys were waiting for us on the other side.

After a few missed turns and corrections, we stumbled across this pretty waterfall.

After 45 minutes, we were out on the road riding along when we came to the summit of our first climb of the day, Erro at 801 meters.

We stopped for a quick coffee & hot chocolate, but quick wasn't the word. We met a dad and son walking the Camino de Santiago who were from South Carolina. Interesting people and we had a great chat before getting back on the road.

Road conditions were great, but the sky was getting darker.

Summit #2 of the day, Mezkiritz at 922 meters.

We stumbled upon this church with its plane trees that will shade the courtyard come summer.

The painted ceiling was very different from all of the older churches we've visited on this trip. The acoustics were great, too.

Final summit (#3) of the day - Ibañeta at 1057 meters. It's rather cool up here in the clouds. Shortly over the top the clouds dissipated. This descent was so much fun! Forested all the way down to Saint Jean Pied de Port.

Of course we had to explore the old Centre Ville of Saint Jean Pied de Port and it didn't disappoint. It's definitely a tourist trap, and it was full of tourists and Camino walkers. One plus we quickly noticed was that we could actually talk to people again! I must say it was quite nice to hear everyone speaking French again after these weeks of only hearing Spanish. It is a concept not fully appreciated by us Americans where you can wake up in the morning hearing one language, ride your bicycle for a few hours and go to sleep where they speak a different language. It is no wonder that Europeans are multi-lingual by nature.

The stained glass was very colorful in this church.

One of the many entry gates to the old town.

Saint-Jacques de Compostelle (Camino de Santiago's French route).

Calla lilies were everywhere and they were huge!

The river Nice de Béhérobie that passes through Saint Jean Pied-de-Port.

Upon arriving in Saint Etienne de Baïgorry, we were pleasantly surprised with our accommodations. We stayed at a wonderful old inn that has been refurbished and it was right along the river. We slept with the balcony door open and listened to the water all night. It was cool and very comfortable staying at Hotel Arcé.