Kenting

November 17, 2014

Dipping our toes into a warmer sea

We began our day very early. Our rock-hard mattress didn't encourage lingering, so by 6 we were lined up at the 7-11 counter making the best of the breakfast options. We had dinner at this store last night also, since nothing else was open by the time we looked around for a meal. We're both more than ready to see some variety again, as well as a more comfortable bed. Two miles down the road we were surprised to see a second small hotel - I thought there was only one here. From the looks of it, I think I'd give it a try next time through.

It turns out we had a choice - there is a second hotel in Dawu. This one is about 2k south of the first one, and from the outside at least seems to meet a bit higher standard.

We were lucky with weather for our last morning on the east coast - overcast but warm and dry, with the seemingly perpetual south wind to push us along. This early in the morning, the highway was almost empty. A few miles out, at Daren, highway 9 leaves the coast for one of the few sustained climbs of our tour - a gradual 6 mile ascent that tops out at 1500 feet. The most remarkable thing about the climb was the company we kept - about a mile into it we picked up a smallish, apparently stray dog that followed us all the way to the summit and then just kept at it down the much more gradual west side. He kept with us 12 miles in all before finally turning back. We were careful never to encourage him or show affection, but we were starting to feel bonded with him by the end and had mixed feelings when he was gone.

This impressive little guy adopted us for about an hour. He ran up the 1500' pass out of Daren with us and then 6 more miles down the other side before we finally dropped him.

Macaques again! They're quite common here - we heard or saw them about 10 times along today's ride.

Just past the summit we finally left highway 9 for the beautiful and much quieter 199. This is really a great cycling road - very quiet, very scenic. It keeps a high elevation for a long time - I think we stayed above 1000' for about 15 miles - and passes through dense upland forest for much of the way. We were delighted to frequently see and hear macaques along this stretch. They must be quite common in this part of the island, based on how frequently we came across them in the road.

Last look at the Pacific, from route 199

Couldn't resist. How often do you come across a monument to a snail?

The rest of the ride was nearly as fine. We rode 199 to its end at Checheng, had a good lunch at a small diner, and then made our way south along the west coast on 153 and then finally on busier highway 26. We arrived in busy Kenting mid-afternoon, leaving us time to clean up and explore a bit before making our way to the beach to catch the brilliant sunset and then mixing in with the crowd of tourists to find a meal. Over dinner we agreed that this was one of the best days of the trip.

When we saw this I assumed they were planting rice. Later though, after passing countless roadside onion stands nearby, I've changed my mind - these must be onion fields.

Looking toward the National Museum of Marine Biology, south of Checheng

Today's ride: 53 miles (85 km)
Total: 449 miles (723 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0