Day 4

August 22, 2021

Klausen to Bozen

Today was what I expected yesterday to be. A VERY easy ride. I had maybe two super short and not even worth mentioning type hills. More like extended bumps actually.

I started my day with the breakfast spread at Sylvanerhof in Klausen. Given that it’s a 3 star hotel I expected a good spread. This one was heavy on fruit, something I really enjoy. I had watermelon, muskmelon, a very big juicy nectarine, and some other fruit I didn’t recognize but ate anyway because I was curious. There was only one type of bread and cheese, though I did see some brötchen on tables there in the breakfast room. I ate outside though. There were also some croissants with filling. I tried the chocolate one.

Even though I would have preferred to sleep in, with breakfast ending at 9:30am followed by checkout, I was on the path before 10am. I knew the ride today was a short one so I was prepared to take my time.

My route took me first through Klausen. I wasn’t actually expecting much so I was surprised to discover Klausen to be interesting. There is the castle and an interesting enough Altstadt.

Getting onto the Radweg from Klausen and the hotel was very easy. Literally across the road. From there the path follows the Eisack river all the way to Bozen. Rather than attempt to describe every last thing I saw on the ride, I’ll summarize it by saying it may be the best riding I’ve had ever in Europe, and that is no small thing to say. I’ll let you get a flavor for it through pictures.

One of many small waterfalls along the way

Some little hillside village along the way

One of several tunnels. The Radweg uses an old train route

Along the way I passed the turnoff where my ride atop the Rittner mountain will descend. I also passed the turnoff for the Seiser Alm and confirmed how wise I was for opting to take the bus up there Tuesday. Looking at the sheer faces of the mountains it’s hard to imagine there is a giant pastureland up top.

The only issue I ran into today was that I drank a LOT of water. Europe does not plop down a portapotty every few miles on their trails like we have in the US. You have to work to find someplace to relieve yourself. 5 miles out of Bozen all that water caught up with me and I spent those miles praying for a toilet. I also ended up trying to coast the whole way into Bozen. I never did find a bathroom, so my first stop at the youth hostel in Bozen was the restroom.

The rooms here are actually very nice. Not huge, but big enough. The bathroom is actually fairly large by European standards. I’ve got a nice desk area, bouncy bed, and best of all, a porch. The view out back isn’t bad either. I’m here for 5 nights so I can actually settle in for once.

Since I arrived by 1pm I’ve spent part of the afternoon slowly wandering through the Altstadt of Bozen. It’s okay, but not something that would be a destination for me. Right now several things in the main square are under renovation. Things are a bit crusty, but then Italy tends to be a little more in need of repair than someplace like Austria where everything is very orderly and under constant maintenance. The point, of course, of being here is easy access to four rides I want to do: the Jenesian mountain, the Rittner mountain, the Seiser Alm, and a loop down to the Kalterer See.

I did find an open bakery with some pretty good Kuchen, and an Eis Cafe. The Eis was below average in my opinion. I won’t patronize them again. The only other comment I can think to add for today is that it’s weird being outside Germany and Austria. While people do speak German here, pretty much everyone defaults first to Italian and sometimes looks at you strangely when you have a blank look on your face. Italy seems to be having success convincing people here to be Italian.

Main square in Bozen. It was tough finding an angle to photograph this at that didn’t include building materials.

I’m thinking tomorrow I’ll ride the Rittner mountain. The Seilbahn is about a block from the youth hostel. Then Tuesday I head up to the Seiser Alm, and Wednesday and Thursday I’ll ride to the Klaterer See and the Jenesian. Then it’s on to Meran. Oh, and it sprinkled briefly today.

Okay. Gotta go. My neighbor is out smoking again and I need to close the door and window.

Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 85 miles (137 km)

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