In Norwich

April 11, 2023

Final day In Norfolk

It’s sunny but cold. Again. We head off to explore Norwich and winkle out its secrets. Local housing is mostly old Victorian two up, two downs that have been renovated but there are some interesting innovations too. Lean tos have been added to the frontage of some and we even spot a few dormers. And there are signs of community groups, and local action and activism, in a couple of the buildings.

Magdalen Street has some marvellous little shops which are stuffed full of the sort of old tat that’s interesting and has nostalgic value, though may not be managed in the average house anymore.

‘The Singing Nun’? Sister Sourire. Where is she now?

Norwich Cathedral is honey coloured, the stone having been bought from Caen in Normandy. In contrast to Ely, it seems quite compact in appearance and features a tall spire. Inside, enthusiastic volunteers greet visitors. We also realise that we are in Julian of Norwich territory. Her Chapel is across town a little way but her statue is at the cathedral. Her writings, now known as Revelations of Divine Love, are the earliest surviving English language works by a woman. Her motto has been expressed as ‘All shall be well and all shall be well, and all manner of things shall be well.’ She is considered an important Christian mystic and theologian who lived at a time when much was happening around Norwich; During her lifetime, the city suffered the devastating effects of the Black Death of 1348–1350, the Peasants’ Revolt. She is said to have experienced a series visions of Christ and l lived a life of seclusion in a cell in St Julian’s Church.

Images related to Edith Cavell and her work as a nurse in Belgium in WW 1.

Commemoration for Edith Cavell executed by German army WW1.

From the cathedral we take a walk along the river Winsum; the name apparently means winding. As with many cities these days, the river is a focus, and restaurants, pubs and apartments line the banks. There’s also a yacht club with a number of flash watercraft of various sorts moored nearby.

Norwich castle is brutalist Norman. It looks monstrous and is almost square in shape. As a museum / art gallery, combines displays of numerous stuffed birds and animals with a collection of mainly 19th century landscapes and other paintings. It’s quiet and peaceful wandering about, even if the artwork isn’t particularly inspiring. There’s a great collection of ceramic teapots in all shapes and designs though.

Interesting painting- the lady of the house has caught the maid indulging in some hanky panky and is supposedly sharing her amusement with us.

We catch the exhibition of the discovery of the sunken ship HMS Gloucester. Interesting as it is the single most significant historic maritime discovery since the raising of the Mary Rose in 1982.

The ship ran aground in heavy seas off the coast of Great Yarmouth with the loss of around 200 lives. The display was very much about the finding and retrieval of material from The Gloucester by a family of divers. In 2007 diving brothers Lincoln and Julian Barnwell found what they believed to be the wreck of the Gloucester. The political background to the tale was also interesting, as James ll, brother of Charles ll was onboard. It seems that the ship sank because the captain’s experienced view, that they should sail further away from the coast, was overridden and so the ship foundered on the well known and treacherous sandbanks just off the coast. James survived.

Retrieved from the ship and on display, were the bell and numerous wine flasks, some still full, as well as some items of women’s clothing, which amazingly have been restored close to their original state.

We walk back through the city and over the river to our abode, later sharing an interesting discussion about local environmental initiatives with our host. Clearly Norfolk has a history and geographical uniqueness that will bring us back.

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