Day 46: Abrantes to Vila de Rei - Grampies Iberian Inquisition Spring 2023 - CycleBlaze

April 16, 2023

Day 46: Abrantes to Vila de Rei

Heart 0 Comment 0

We started out with a slight navigational error, in which we headed up toward the castle instead of down toward the river. Someone unkind might judge that the Grampies do not know up from down, but there was something about the sun being in our eyes. Indeed, west coast Canadians can not be expected to handle sun well!

OK, got it now, heading down!
Heart 3 Comment 0
Right, right, there is the castle, UP there.
Heart 1 Comment 0
From a bit of distance out of Abrantes, the castle can be seen on the left and the church spire on the right.
Heart 1 Comment 0

We now implemented again the smart move of choosing little white roads over the actual N2, in order to avoid any excessive traffic. This being Sunday, we could expect the semi-trailers to be asleep, and indeed we did pass some resting by the roadside. Ssshh, don't get them going!

The little white road was so great! We were in cycling heaven.
Heart 3 Comment 0
Looking across the valley, we were impressed by terraced plantings of Eucalyptus. You can see again the colour variation in the leaves of the baby trees.
Heart 1 Comment 0

"Looking across the valley" already signals that there may be something amiss with our white road plan. How did we get a valley? Doesn't that signal some kind of ups and downs?

After Sentieiras, we realized (just as had happened north of Faro) that suddenly we were looking down at villages.

How did we get up here?
Heart 0 Comment 0
Things became more worrisome as we began to descend. (But note the interesting tree plantings!)
Heart 1 Comment 0
From Sao Domingos and Salgueira it was down, down.
Heart 1 Comment 0
Brescovo? down!
Heart 1 Comment 0
That's our road ahead, seems to be descending still.
Heart 1 Comment 0
We got a hint of what was to come, because that is the road going up on the left.
Heart 0 Comment 0
This bridge was the bottom, naturally, with a little stream beneath. The stream did widen to a bit of a river nearby, that actually offered a beach area.
Heart 1 Comment 0
As you can see, we were not on the N2, but on the former N2. his road was too windy and steep to remain as the official (typically windy, steep) N2.
Heart 0 Comment 0
From the bridge, surprise, we climbed. That is some of the road we covered on the way to where this shot was taken.
Heart 1 Comment 0
Now looking down at the widened part of the stream we had crossed.
Heart 4 Comment 0
A lookout (the dreaded "miradouro") allows a look back down into the valley. Stairs from here would allow the energetic to descend to the beach.
Heart 2 Comment 0
From the viewpoint, the climbing was just beginning. The road would snake up and away, and around the next corners would be more up and away.
Heart 1 Comment 0

Dodie found the slope of the road too great, and ended up pushing. I would cycle on up and choose some shady spot spot for her to catch up. Typically I would pull out my phone at these points, and was able to watch a report on the secret documents leak in the US, and to read quite a few news stories. It was kind of unfair because when Dodie would reach my position I would cycle on ahead, stop,  and read some more news or even take a nap, but she just kept plodding upward.

We looked down at one point to see a nicely tended garden, but mostly the area was uninhabited.
Heart 2 Comment 0

From photos on Google Maps we expected Vila de Rei to be a huddle of stone houses, but first we found some large pink apartment buildings, and then a very normal looking rather modern town. Things were beginning to look a little older and quainter, when boom, we were at our place. Our place appeared at first to just be a restaurant, but they have a little apartment around the side. Although small for an apartment, it is of course huge compared to a hotel room, and we are very happy about it.

The restaurant
Heart 1 Comment 0
The apartment
Heart 3 Comment 0
Our street
Heart 2 Comment 0

The restaurant itself was interesting. It's name, the Fifty Fifty derives from the fact that Vila de Rei is in the exact geographic centre of Portugal, and as such it is 50% of the way up or down the N2, which runs the whole length of the country. The Fifty Fifty, falling victim to Americanization, seeing itself at a strategic position on the N2, fell to viewing itself as some how linked to Route 66, with is the American N2. And being linked to Route 66, it is decorated with Marilyn Monroe and Rock and Roll type stuff. Whether for this reason or the fact that this was Sunday afternoon, the place was packed when we arrived. We were attracted by their daily special (for some reason), which was (of course) baked cod. It is fitting that half way through Portugal we should at least give their national favourite a try.

Inside the Fifty Fifty. Being nosey, we observed that Grandma (in the front) did not eat her cod, and took it as a takeout. She then got dessert, but only partially ate it. I guess Grandma can do as she pleases, but ??.
Heart 1 Comment 0
Here is our baked cod. It was baked in olive oil and topped with onions. We found it strangely lacking in flavour, would have much preferred some BC salmon. However, we were able to get fresh (seriously fresh) orange juice, which is so great here when you can find it.
Heart 1 Comment 0
Our dessert choices were a panacotta with salted caramel sauce, and cheese cake with red fruit sauce. Both quite fluffy, but good. We are finding Portuguese food to be rather on the bland and weak side.
Heart 0 Comment 0
Here you see the representation of the N2 road marker, inside the restaurant. Most restaurants on the N2 will show their KM number this way.
Heart 0 Comment 0
Here is where we are in Portugal - stuck right in the middle! Of course we are not going all the way to the top, but we are planning to deviate west, to Coimbra, and east to Pinhao, on our drunken way back to Porto.
Heart 0 Comment 0

Today's ride: 34 km (21 miles)
Total: 2,034 km (1,263 miles)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 7
Comment on this entry Comment 2
Kelly IniguezWe do like our food, and find your food commentary interesting. One of my main concerns is starving in Spain, with their late dinners. Jacinto says he will find food no matter what!
Reply to this comment
1 year ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Kelly IniguezWe try to stock up on food at grocery stores. Restaurants open too late for us. By the time they open for supper we are ready for sleep.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago