If yesterday left me in a somber and reflective mood, today was filled with sweat and smiles – a very hot day but a glorious ride filled with old memories and new friends.
The day started with a pass-by look at two memorials to WWI located just across the river from Porte Chaussée, the original entrance to Verdun. Although I typically book a room near the center of town, I changed my pattern in Verdun, opting instead for a room closer to the battlefield monuments. It worked out, but as I stood gazing across the river I regretted not making more time to visit what looked to be an interesting and historical town. Instead, I crossed the bridge and headed north through the countryside along the west bank of the Meuse River.
The Porte Chaussée, or Road Gate, is the official entrance to the city of Verdun
The Verdun War Memorial - Monument to the Dead and to the Children of Verdun - depicts the five corps of the French army that were engaged during the Battle of Verdun and symbolize the motto of Verdun "We do not pass"
The sun bore down as I cycled through an open landscape devoid of trees. I noticed on RWGPS that there was a bike route right alongside the eastern bank of the river, running parallel to my route. Though it was marked unpaved, I thought it might provide some shade and a little relief from the rising temperature. Both routes intersected further north in Forges-sur-Meuse, so I turned around and headed back into Bras-sur-Meuse. I had trouble finding access to the bike path but after asking for directions from two local girls armed with baguettes and a small dog, I found myself on a shady double-track with a good surface – just what I was seeking. However, it was a bit monotonous and after five miles and I found a route back to the more interesting open roads.
One of the more interesting places I passed was Velo-Rail, a business where your can rent a bicycle/carriage combination that you push along an abandoned railroad line. The place was closed, but I nosed around a bit as the concept was one I'd first seen in Cambodia several years ago. I was on a two-week guided tour from Saigon to Bangkok and we were treated to a ride on The Bamboo Train In Battambang, Cambodia. The “train car” consisted of a rectangular bamboo platform sitting a pair of rail wheels and powered by a small engine operated. As passengers, we sat on the platform while the "conductor" controlled the engine, sending us down an abandoned rail line at up to 40 km/hr. The fact that the rails were often bent and/or disconnected only added to the thrill of the ride. I imagined the Velo-Rail would not be nearly so much fun.
Clear blue skies made for great morning cycling along the Meuse River Cycle Route. But I wondered what it might be like on the bike path in the trees along the river
As the day wore on and the temperatures rose, I began looking for a place to refill my water. Yesterday it seemed that all the small towns had an adjoining cemetery, but none was to be found today. I stopped to chat with Frony and Joop, a Dutch couple heading south, who told me of a town ahead with a supermarket. They forgot the name of the town, but assured me it was not far off.
Well, Dun-sur Meuse turned out to be a little further than I expected. And by the time I reached the supermarket, it was closed, as was everything else in town. While I did not find water, I did find a WWI memorial honoring American soldiers of the 5th US Division who died freeing Dun-sur-Meuse in 1918. The monument was adjacent to the Pershing Memorial Bridge, which was built by the Society of the Fifth Division to honor the 5th US Division. The two memorials were physical reminders of how WWI impacted this region, yet all day the events of the war still echoed throughout the region, in both the small towns and countryside.
Though it was only eight miles to my lodging, temperatures were near 100°F and my water gauge was on empty. The only place I could find open was the Tourist Information, where the kind attendant graciously filled both water bottles. A took a few gulps and was headed back to my route when I saw a sign for a snack bar. I veered off to Lac Vert Plage, a lake and camping site complete with water slide. In a flash, I was at the snack bar enjoying a cold coke and French fries with my sandwich.
Lisa gave me a big welcome when I arrived at Maison des Beaux Arts, described as a “therapeutic house without the therapy.” It is her home that she shares with others – be it cyclists seeking a room for the night or groups wanting to play her extensive collection of musical instruments. For cyclists, she provides a hearty and healthy meal at a shared table – a family dinner for those on the road. On this night, it was a group of six – Lisa, me, and Berthold, Norbert, Peter and Michael, a group four German cyclists who had been taking annual tours since 1978. It was an extraordinary meal – the food was wonderful but the conversation and camaraderie were outstanding. Though we were a mix of nationalities, we were the of same vintage and so reminisced and pontificated on the past, present and future states of life – for ourselves and for the world. Berthold strummed the guitar and the evening ended with Lisa singing Schubert while accompanying herself at the piano. Fantastic.
There was real joy at our table. From left - Norbert, Berthold, Lisa, Michael and Peter
