September 14, 2019
Verteuil-sur-Charente
Another blue-sky day with temperatures rising. I crossed the Vienne River and headed east toward the Charente River. The day featured some of my favorites for cycling – small roads through a rolling landscape of farms and woodlands. The hills were softer, more rounded than in previous days, and the farm fields more expansive. Passing standing corn and distant windmills reminded me a bit of Iowa.
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I did not have far to go, so took my time enjoying the day and the French countryside. I did a large detour around Champagne-Mouton looking for an interesting place to eat, eventually settling on day old bread and Château cheese. I passed near the town of Nanteuil -en- Vallée, stopping at the turn-off to contemplate the merits of a short side trip. I soon realized what I was here for, and turned toward town. It is a delightful village, actually on of France’s “Small Town of Character”. I passed two restaurants in the full swing of lunch service, and regretted that I had already consumed my tired lunch. The town has interesting structures and a nice ancient Abbey Notre Dame, which was closed to visitors. Heading back down to my route, I reminded myself that little side trips often provide unexpected moments of joy in the day’s journey.
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I arrived in Verteuil-sur-Charente a little early and found that my room was ready - yeah! The accommodations were wonderful – a well-appointed room with facilities for washing clothes and a terrace out back for relaxing while the aforesaid clothes washed. I decided to skip the visit the Château de Verteuil, which is a dominating feature of this lovely town. Instead, I lounged, work on the journal, and watched my clothes dry in the late afternoon sun. I walked into town to eat a place recommended by my host. It was fabulous - raw oysters from the coast of France (I’m a fan) and guinea fowl stuffed with sausage and chestnuts with roast vegetables and an unbelievable red wine sauce. The meal capped off a most enjoyable day, one filled with comforting landscapes, clean clothes and little surprises.
Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 177 miles (285 km)
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